Led downlights wiring

Old 07-25-19, 06:18 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 29
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Led downlights wiring

Im renovating a house, basically a gut job.
Id like to use these narrow led downlights that Im seeing more and more, rather than can lights.
My concern is about the size of the junction box. Its pretty small.
The lights I bought have 3 holes where Romex can come in to make the connection to the lights, but getting 3 14-2 cables in there seems too crowded.
My alternate plan is having sort of a large junction box fed from the light switch and then have multiple cables running out, with a single cable going to each fixture. That junction box would look like a spider, but it seems better than overcrowding the fixture box.
FWIW, the dimensions of the open portion of the fixtures box are 2.3x 2.2 x 1.3

Also, not completely sure how to treat the rough in inspection because the fixture box normally just sits on the drywall with these led downlights as opposed to a recessed light can which is nailed to joists and has its own larger box that you can feed your cables into without hooking them up.

Anyone have any thoughts on either of these issues?
Attached Images   
Old 07-25-19, 08:38 AM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 27,533
Received 2,122 Upvotes on 1,899 Posts
Personally I would use a standard can light for new construction or a remodel. I see no benefit in the style of light you picture. For one thing it's easier to wire a traditional can and it's standard and replacement bulbs will be available for a really long time. Can lights have already survived the transition from incandescent to compact fluorescent to LED. What are you going to do when the little power supply box or the LED emitter of your lights dies? With a standard can light you'd just unscrew the LED bulb and put in a new one.
Old 07-26-19, 10:57 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 6,073
Received 416 Upvotes on 369 Posts
Can you run the cabling so that you only have two 14/2 cables in each box? One light to the next...
If you need 3 14/2 cables, they will likely fit, there's more room in there than you think.

Usually for these types of cans, rough-in without drywall will just leave the 14/2 stapled to the joists hanging down where the holes will go. If it's a retrofit, I'd install the boxes, but leave the light off and just tape over the little connector (otherwise the painters will definitely get paint in the connector somehow).

I've been using these fixtures in the last few projects I've done. I like them a lot. My main concern is that many of them are cheaply made, so you may end up having to replace one or two over the next couple years. I try to order a few extra and keep them for replacements - so I'm not trying to match the style and color temperature for one that goes bad. For a 6-light kitchen, it's not so bad. I talked to someone who installed ~50 throughout their house, I would definitely want a few spares!
Old 07-26-19, 03:47 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 29
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the replies.
I started out intending to do traditional cans, but even the lower profile models at my Lowes/HD were too tall for the space as I have several pieces of lumber in the attic that are directly above where the cans would go, so, two of four lights in three rooms just dont have much space, so these just fit better.
Im thinking that having the spares, combined with using Wagos Lever nuts would make it easiest to tolerate the burnouts when they eventually occur.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: