8-foot LEDs failing to work right

We have a fixture that takes 8-foot long tube-style lamps, previously we ran T-8 fluorescent lamps in it but recently installed LED lamps instead, as replacements for the fluorescents. The LED lamps work/illuminate as they should but after the light switch is turned off and then later when the light switch it turned back on, they fail to operate as they should with their regular brightness. Instead they come on but so dimly they barely put out any light at all. I noticed though that after this happens if I briefly remove one end of one of the lamps from the sockets and then insert it back into the socket, both lamps illuminate fully as they should and stay on fine until the switch is turned off again. But then, as I mentioned when the switch is turned on again later, it's the same thing as I just described; they barely come on with only very slight dim light and will remain that way unless I remove one end from one of the sockets and re-insert it as I just described.

Any comments/advice appreciated as to why this is happening and what should be checked.

 

Are the LED bulbs 120VAC powered or are you using the original ballast?

 

If the replacement LED package doesn't say it can be connected in parallel electrically with another LED lamp of the same type, you have found one of the Achillies heels of replacing incandescents with LEDs

 

Using original ballast. So that could be the problem?

Not sure what you mean by replacement LED package. There was no package, I just purchased a couple 8-foot lamps, same diameter and ends as the fluorescent T-8s which were replaced with these lamps.

 

The problem with not eliminating the ballast is that the ballast could fail at any time. I don't see the point of not dumping the ballast. If you want to leave the ballast continue to use fluorescent tube.

 

The fluorescent tube(s) finally burned out and there was no fluorescent tubes that size immediately available in the number (just two) for sale, therefore we decided to replace with LEDs. It seems from the comments here that apparently if I want these LEDs to work right I need to just eliminate that old ballast altogether, correct? Even if that ballast is still good and got some life, I can find use for it elsewhere, no need to dump it.

 

It depends on the LEDS. They come in two different versions. One uses the ballast and one does not. You have to know which type you have and wire them accordingly.

 

Ah, i see. Okay I'll check into that. Thanks for the info!

 

Bulbs without drivers require a ballast and bulbs with drivers do not require a ballast. The drivers are inside the tubes so I don't believe there is any way to know if they do or don't by simply looking at them, but you could look your bulbs up online and should be able to see if they have drivers.

 

Okay the specific bulbs are what is shown in the link below. It doesn't say but I would think these don't have drivers. Any further comment in that regard appreciated.

https://www.truevalue.com/shop/light...lumens-36-watt

 

On a different site I found line

These LED T8 lamps come in Fa8 single-pin base and utilize a GE external driver to operate.

GE 62329 LED36T8/G/8/840 Type C LED T8 4000K 30W 0-10V Dimming

 

So apparently there is no driver actually inside these bulbs (or "lamps/tubes" or however they are referred) but I'd need to acquire and then connect to a "GE external driver" for them to operate properly?

 

I think the problem is the dimmable bulbs. I bet they are interpreting the on/off sequencing as a dimming command. Do you still have the instructions that came with the bulbs?

 

I could not find any detailed install instructions. Based on that one site, yes you need a driver to go with the tubes.

 

I was just typing the following response when Joed just posted his comment in #14 here:

No instructions came with the bulbs; I just ordered two of them through from True Value hardware and they came just like that, no instructions.

The bulbs are described as “dimmable if used with dimming ballast/driver” as indicated in the link I provided in #10 post this thread.

In the link provided by Joed in post #11 this thread, it says the bulbs “utilize a GE external driver to operate. This dimmable driver allows for 0-10V dimming for even more control and energy savings.” Also that page has a link to a cut- sheet/brochure which says each LED tube is operated by a GE Lightech driver, and which shows the driver product details of both non-dimmable drivers and dimmable drivers.

So apparently one of those particular GE Lightech drivers is absolutely required for these bulbs to operate? If so, and I didn't plan on wanting or needing the dimmable feature, my question now is can I simply get one of the non-dimmable GE Lightech drivers listed and should that be fine for these bulbs to operate properly?

 

Non dimmable driver should be fine for non dimming application. You don't have to use the dimming feature.
I would check the price because some of the dimmable ones can drive 4 lamps. That might be cheaper than the non dimmable which only has 2 lamp max drivers.

 

My fixture only has 2 lamps. I looked up a few prices of a few of the drivers on that listing in the brochure for both the dimmable and non-dimmable; it seems for whatever reason the dimmable was a little less expensive than the non-dimmable. I just want what will work, keeping in mind no dimming necessary but yet of course for the for the cheapest price, and for just my two-lamp fixture. If it were you in my situation, which specific one of those particular models of those drivers listed would you get (for my my particular bulbs)? Thanks.

 

The two lamp one that is the cheapest.

 

I actually found the two-lamp option that would be the cheapest to be the model 38970, which is described as LED15T8/DR-UN-2L. Should that probably be fine/appropriate for the bulbs I have? Just wondering about that 15 in the number, whether that means just 15 watts or what and if so whether that's strong enough for these bulbs.

 

Just thinking. You have previously changed the bulbs to t8 flourescents. Was the bulb you replaced a t12 flourescent? If so, the ballast would now be incorrect for the t8 LED.

Most LED bulbs have the directions printed on the bulb. Very small and usually in a light gray color. It would show you how the bulb is to be wired. It will show if there is a ballast and or direct wire. There may also be directions as to which end the wires attach to if it were a 2 pin bulb. Since you have single pin bulbs, there is almost only one way to wire them. One wire on each end.

If you get a new ballast, it will have a drawing on the ballast for wiring also and the number of bulbs and type of bulbs (t8, not t12 and not HO) the ballast will operate.

As stated earlier, I would go for direct wire and eliminate the ballast if possible. It uses electric and could fail at some time.

Also keep your receipt and write the date you installed the bulb on the bulb. If the bulbs did not come with a sticker stating this fixture is converted to use LED bulbs, if you go the direct wire route, write it on the fixture for future reference.

 

No, the bulbs have always been T8 fluorescents in this fixture previously.

No.

I spoke with the tech support person at the website Premier Lighting as shown in link post #11 this thread. I was informed these bulbs require a driver, and that the proper specific driver for full proper operation would be the GE model 63126 as listed among the various ones on the cut-sheet/brochure linked from that page also. I will thus be acquiring that driver which should resolve my issue.