Good evening,
I an planning on installing an outdoor fan on our patio which is located under a sun room. I was going to tap into the already existing outdoor recessed outlet box (GFCI), bring the Romex up to a 2 outdoor switches (the TAYMAC weatherproof ones) and then route the 12-3 Romex back inside and up the wall and then over about 15 feet in the floor joists , and then exit the house. This will place the conduit up in deck joists under the sun room so it would be less visible. I plan on running 3/4 conduit from the fan to the wall with 12 gauge THWN wire, and then place a Carlon 3/4-in Pull Hub to connect the THWN to Romex (per the Big Box Store rep recommendation). I would then run the Romex through a conduit sleeve back inside as previously described. I have several questions.

Can I use Romex as it would exit the house where it would be spliced to the THWN or should I buy some UF or other wire? I have tried researching this online but have found differing thoughts. The interior wall behind the outlet I am tapping into is currently exposed as I am working on a media room so now is an easy time to run a wire. Can I actually use the Pull hub to splice the Romex/THWN together or should I instead put an exterior box? If so, thoughts on what box as well as how to run it through the siding? Any other thought are appreciated .

Thank you .

 

Any wiring on the outside of the house needs to be either UF or THWN. Even if it's in conduit, it needs to be wet rated cable.

I would consider running the conduit from the receptacle, up the wall, and across the ceiling. If you want to poke back inside to hide some of it, that's fine too... but I don't know if it's worth the effort, It's hard for me to picture how it will look.

You can't use a pull connection or LB fitting to make a splice (in most cases). If you need to make a splice, use a waterproof box with a cover on it.

 

Don't use #12 wiring unless that is what the circuit is currently wired in.

Taymac is just the weatherproof cover.
You could cut a two gang box in the wall and use a two gang Taymac weatherproof cover.
The wiring would be inside the wall from the receptacle to the switches.

Not sure what your ceiling looks like but you could use UF cable from the switches right to the fan.
Since you have the inside wall open.... you may be able to wire directly thru the wall into the sun room floor.

 

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Try posting directly to the board....... How-to-insert-pictures.

 

Was trying to do post from my phone sorry for the issues. Here are some pictures which I should have sent in the first place sorry.

Oh and my entire house is wired 20 amp with the exception of ,major appliances, AC, heater etc. Only one 15 amp circuit in the whole box, and that is going to a media cabinet circuit breaker that required dedicated 15amp line. Again than you for any info..

 

So you could use 12-3 UF up from the switch and out to the fan but it's slightly tough to work with. You could also bring 12-3 NM-b up inside the wall and into a box where you can convert to #12 THHN/THWN.

 

So if I cut the 2 gang box into the siding, can I just use a regular box with the waterproof cover? Also if I cut the siding for the junction box, everything could be nm-b and just transition to THWN? Could this also just be a regular junction box? All I keep finding is exterior waterproof boxes.

Thank you again.

 

You got it! The box is technically inside the house, so you can use a standard blue (or metal) box. The plate is exterior, so you'd need to use the exterior plate.

Same with the wiring. Receptacle to switch, inside, therefore NM-B.

You have a few options from the switch to the fan. If the wall is open above from the inside, I'd just run a 1/2" PVC conduit straight across the joists and into the house. No fitting on the end, just run 12/3 UF up the wall, into the conduit, and to the box. The 12/3 UF would be hard (impossible?) to make a bend, but in a straight conduit, it should feed through without a problem.

Alternatively, 1/2" PVC from the fan, through the wall, and elbow down and offset into a metal box where the switch is. A bit more work, but then it's conduit and THWN the whole way from the switch to the fan.

 

Hi, is the ceiling exposed above the outlet? It’s a bit hard to visualize, but you will mounting the new 2 gang above the outlet, correct? , from there 3 conductors plus ground to the fan location, I would stay away from UF, to hard to work with. If you were to drill through the rim joist under the deck where the fan will be what would be on the other side?
Geo

 

The ceiling above the outlet is also currently unfinished (media room in progress). My original thought was to come straight out above the switch. I then thought of instead coming out above the window on the picture which would allow me to raise the conduit to the side of joist and running parallel to joist (up a couple onches) instead of hanging below. I may just go back to the original plan. I already bought the 12 gauge THWN wire. UF spunds like a pain to strip and work with, but no cutting into walls. I would also have to make 3 90 degree bends to get over above the window.
I really appreciate all the advice!

 

When I look at your pictures I see what you mean about the box location in reference to the joists and fan. You could install a surface mount box right on the bottom of the joist and go from there straight across the bottom of the joists and into the open wall with conduit. The easiest method.

You could drill across the joists and use 12/3 UF.

You could almost pull the wire between the metal roof and the top of the joists.

 

Hi, you haven’t said what is on the other side if you were to drill a hole through the rim joist, is it the unfinished room?
Geo

 

Sorry, drop ceiling in room where window is at, unfinished ceiling in room electrical box is currently in.

 

Hi, why not get the 12/3 from the switch up above the suspended ceiling to the location of the fan and drill through the rim joist and out to the fan, or am I missing something?
Geo

 

Geo.... it would need to be 12-3 UF as it's exposed outside.
Definitely do-able.... just a little tough working with the UF cable.