[color=#141414]Full disclosure - I am NOT an electrician and don't claim to be. Have done a lot of small, straightforward electrical jobs like replacing switches and adding outlets to an existing circuit, but this one is a bit different. I want to install a 1400 watt under-sink hot water heater (HWH). It uses a simple 3 pronged plug and I can easily install an outlet box under the sink and tap into one of two existing 120v circuits for the power. Both are in a gangbox above the counter, so it was pretty easy to pull 12-2 Romex straight down the stud to the opening under the sink. I have a 20 amp circuit that feeds multiple outlets including the ones used by the fridge, toaster oven, and coffee maker. My concern there is that the HWH at full draw will likely trip the breaker when toaster oven is running or the fridge kicks in. I can deal with the toaster oven turning off, but I don't want to lose a fridge full of food if this trips in the middle of the night or while we're not home.[/color] [color=#141414]The other is the dedicated 15 amp circuit for the garbage disposal, which draws 8 amps, so it can't be on at the same time the HWH kicks in (8+12 > 15). However, you're never needing hot water while you're running the disposal, it's an either-or thing. (I'll also install a separate switch on the outlet for the HWH so it can just be shut off manually.) What I'm wondering is can I use a 15 amp capacity 3 way switch to effectively have the HWH on when the disposal is off, and when you turn the disposal on, the HWH is powered off? (each appliance will be grounded directly to the existing ground.) I'm pretty sure that this would actually work from a technical perspective - the HWH and disposal can share the neutral and the hot will be controlled by the switch. The question is, would it be to code, is it even a good idea?[/color]

I have an Italian-made ceramic lamp: Campagnolo Arteluce. It appears to considered an antique and was hand-painted. The wiring shorted out and needs to be replaced. The power cord from the plug goes up through a threaded shaft that runs from the base of the lamp, through a ceramic stand (6 1/2 inched long) up to a narrow ceramic shade (7 1/2 inches wide) that hangs down around the shaft. There is a metal plate near the top of the threaded shaft that supports the ceramic shade. The power cord comes out of the shaft and enters a splitter (I don't think I can reuse the splitter) anchored to the plate, with power cords emerging to connect to two sockets. The connecters on the sockets were corroded and need to be replaced. The sockets and the candelabra-flame bulbs in the sockets pointed down from the bottom of the plate. There is not enough room between the metal plate and the ceramic shade to install a common, vertical socket. How do I take the single power cord, split it up to service two sockets? And what kind of sockets should I use on this application?