LED strips under base boards
#1
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LED strips under base boards
I am refinishing my home gym. It is a good size, (17 x 25 ) Using fairly dark paint colors, white 5.75” baseboards and a black rubber floor with about 35% color specs. I thought it may be funky to add perimeter LED strips to create a glow effect. My baseboards are currently off the walls.
Looking for suggestions on how best to recess (hide) said LED strip to provide indirect lighting effect. I do have a good router.
Could I perhaps stick the LED strip underneath a quarter round (or other moulding) mounted say 1/2” above the rubber floor, or would that look weird???
Any ideas highly appreciated!!
Looking for suggestions on how best to recess (hide) said LED strip to provide indirect lighting effect. I do have a good router.
Could I perhaps stick the LED strip underneath a quarter round (or other moulding) mounted say 1/2” above the rubber floor, or would that look weird???
Any ideas highly appreciated!!
#2
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The strips are very low profile and only about 3/8" wide so you can stick them anywhere. You could use almost any kind of molding, install it at least several inches off the floor with the LED strip stuck to the bottom shining down. If you really want to get psychedelic get color changing LEDs.
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Thanks for info The circumference of the room is about 75’ I figure that since I want to plug it into a switched outlet (coming from ceiling lights switch), I will have to go with a 110V option (25m) These are all outdoor rated, slightly bulkier
My dilemma now is that I do have a doorway (closet) to span. I do not want to outline the door’s casing with the LED’s ( only the base boards).
How would I achieve this?
My dilemma now is that I do have a doorway (closet) to span. I do not want to outline the door’s casing with the LED’s ( only the base boards).
How would I achieve this?
Last edited by XSleeper; 05-22-20 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Removed "Spoiler" html.
#6
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If you use low voltage LED strips you can attach wire to the end of the strand. Then somehow run the up and around the door or through the wall and route the wire inside the closet then back out the others side to reconnect the next string of LED's.
Almost all LED strips are powered by 120VAC but all I have seen the strip is actually low voltage. There is a power supply somewhere that drops from 120 VAC to either 12 or 24 volts AC or DC.
Almost all LED strips are powered by 120VAC but all I have seen the strip is actually low voltage. There is a power supply somewhere that drops from 120 VAC to either 12 or 24 volts AC or DC.
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Problem with 12V is that you are limited by length, which in my case would mean two or three power packs at different outlets around the room. I would like these to be synchronized and switched with the ceilings lights.
soldering wires on the 12V strips looks a little tricky, but I guess doable.
soldering wires on the 12V strips looks a little tricky, but I guess doable.
#8
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One thing I've done is break the LED's into two strips. The first strip is powered like you'd expect. At the power source, in addition to the first string of LED's I connect some heavy gauge wire. Run the heavy gauge wire to feed power to your second strip of LED's. The heavy wire can carry the load without much voltage drop so the second string can be as bright as the first.
#9
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Google LED strip connectors.
They come in push on and clamp on.
I have never soldered on these but have soldered the foil flat ribbon cables.
The secret is speed so just the minimum amount of heat is applied to the foil.
Also always tin the foil first before trying to solder on a wire.
They come in push on and clamp on.
I have never soldered on these but have soldered the foil flat ribbon cables.
The secret is speed so just the minimum amount of heat is applied to the foil.
Also always tin the foil first before trying to solder on a wire.