Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Electrical, AC & DC. Electronic Equipment and Computers > Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans
Reload this Page >

Using Existing Switch to Control Recessed Lighting / Replacing Half-Hot Outlet

Using Existing Switch to Control Recessed Lighting / Replacing Half-Hot Outlet

Reply

  #1  
Old 08-04-20, 11:50 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Canada
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Using Existing Switch to Control Recessed Lighting / Replacing Half-Hot Outlet

Hi All!
I want to thank you all in advance for taking the time to look over this thread.

Iíve searched and read threads with similar topics, all of which have been relatively helpful / informative.
Due to the seriousness of Electrical work, I figured it may be best to describe my scenario and upload photos of what I am dealing with specifically in order to avoid any mistakes and mishaps.

Location as per Forum Rules: Ontario, Canada

Information Summary:
My house was built around 2003. Currently all bedrooms in my house have no ceiling lighting, are all wired with ONE Half-Hot Receptacle controlled by ONE switch, and have 2 Always-Hot Receptacles. No access to an attic (working between floors).

What Iím trying to do:
Iím looking to add some Recessed LED lighting to my second floor bedroom.
I want to turn my Half-Hot Receptacle into one that is Always Hot, and have the Switch located in the room controlling the ceiling lights.
I also want to replace my current switch with a Lutron Diva LED Dimmer Switch.

Iíve gone ahead and drilled out the holes in my ceiling for the recessed lighting, ran the 14/2 NMD90 Romex, and wired up all the LED light junction boxes except for one 14/2 wire.

Iím looking for some clarification as to how I should finish up this wiring.

Iíve attached photos showing my current wiring setup. All wiring is original and has not been touched since the houseís construction.

The Switch Box:
- Has one 14/3 wire running to the Half-Hot Receptacle Box
- Has one 14/2 wire
- Both Neutrals (White Wires) are connected by a wire nut and tucked back into the box
- Both Grounds (Bare Metal Wires) are connected to a different screw in the box
- The Hot Wire (Black Wire) from the 14/3 is on the bottom Backstab of the switch
- The Hot Wire (Black Wire) from the 14/2 is on the bottom screw of the switch
- The Switched Hot Wire (Red Wire) from the 14/3 is on the top Backstab of the switch




The Half-Hot Receptacle Box:
- Has one 14/3 wire running to the Switch Box
- Has one 14/2 wire (Iím GUESSING that this leads to the next outlet in the room?)
- The 14/3 Black Wire is on the Top Hot Backstab
- The 14/3 White Wire is on the Top Neutral Backstab
- The 14/3 Red Wire on the the Bottom Hot Backstab
- The 14/3 Ground looks like it is connected to a screw in the box
- The 14/2 Black wire is on the Top Hot Screw
- The 14/2 White Wire is on the Bottom Neutral Backstab
- The 14/2 Ground is wrapped around a screw in the box and then looks it continues to the screw on the Receptacle.



I have new Leviton Receptacles (T5325-w) incase I need to replace the receptacle due to the broken tab.

How would I wire the new receptacle so that it is always hot, and how would I wire the switch so that it powers my ceiling lights?

I have ONE 14/2 wire coming from my lighting which needs to be connect to the aforementioned wires. I can run the wire quite easily to the Half-Hot Receptacle Box. Just looking for some clarification as to what wire needs to be connected to what.

Additionally, here is a photo of the LED Dimmer Switch I plan on using. If someone could clarify how to wire it to replace the existing switch, that would be great!



If Iím missing any information, or if something is unclear, Iíll try my best to clarify.
Once again thank you for taking the time to help out!
Cheers
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 08-04-20, 01:46 PM
Geochurchi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 4,733
Received 65 Votes on 61 Posts
Hi, which box did you run the wire from the fixture to? if it comes into the switch box, the white conductor will be connected to the group of whites in the switch box, the black will go to one terminal of the switch, the other blacks will get pigtailed to the other terminal, at the receptacle the red conductor will get capped off and the black will feed the receptacle, leave the tab in place, donít use those back stab terminals.
post the model # of the dimmer.

Geo
 
ss319 voted this post useful.
  #3  
Old 08-04-20, 01:54 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: welland ontario
Posts: 7,521
Received 236 Votes on 207 Posts
Nothing unusual about the wiring. For proper directions we need to know where you intend to run the cable from the lights. You can run to either the switch box or the half switched receptacle. It will work equally from either setup.
 
  #4  
Old 08-04-20, 02:42 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Canada
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I appreciate the replies!

I was hoping to run the 14/2 cable from the light fixtures to the Half-Hot Receptacle Box.

Also as requested - Information on the Dimmer Switch:
Lutron Diva C-L
Model #: DVWCL-153PH
 
  #5  
Old 08-04-20, 05:46 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: welland ontario
Posts: 7,521
Received 236 Votes on 207 Posts
At the receptacle connect the new light white to the other whites in the box. You might need a pigtail to connect to the receptacle.
Get a new receptacle. The one that is there now has the tab cut between the gold screws.
Connect the black that is on the old receptacle to the new receptacle.
Connect the red that is on the old receptacle to the new black from the new lights.

Connect all the grounds together.

No changes are required at the switch.
 
ss319 voted this post useful.
  #6  
Old 08-04-20, 06:25 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,442
Received 1,021 Votes on 947 Posts
One addition to Joed's wiring. You currently have two black wires on the receptacle. They will both stay on the brass side of the receptacle. You can put one black on each screw terminal. Don't use the push ins on the back.

At the switch end.... both black wires currently on the switch go the black of the dimmer.
The red from the dimmer goes to the red in the box.
The red/yellow gets capped off.
 
ss319 voted this post useful.
  #7  
Old 08-06-20, 08:46 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Canada
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for all the help Geo, Joed, Pete!
I was able to to wire everything successfully! Both the lighting, and receptacle are working flawlessly.

Something to consider for anyone else looking to do similar work; My Dimmer Switch didn't fit into the original box as the original was relatively shallow. You may want to keep in mind that you may need to replace your electrical box with one that is larger in order for everything to fit properly / safely.

Thank you all once again,
Cheers!
 
  #8  
Old 08-06-20, 09:13 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,442
Received 1,021 Votes on 947 Posts
Good job. Thanks for letting us know how you made out.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: