If my fixture just says Type B can either B10 or B11 be used? B10 was replaced with B11 recently and want to make sure what he did was ok!

I bought this house in 1980 (the house was about 20 years old at the time) and a florescent light in the kitchen has always worked until recently. Replacing light bulbs did not work and replacing the starters did not work. I thought I might be able to replace the ballast until I saw what I was up against. No YouTube video covered anything like this, so I put it on hold. I just got a new LED light to replace the old florescent light. I thought it would be simple. Black to black and white to white. Got it all apart to find something I have no idea how to proceed. Getting an electrician could take a couple of months, so look at the photos below to see what this is all about. First photo below shows the old light. Second photo shows the wires after I removed the light. The light switch was off, so I figured I was good, but sparks flew when I pulled the old fixture off the wires. Second photo below shows the wires. The green arrows point to two wires that are dead, switch on or off. The two red arrows point to two wires that are hot no matter if the switch is on or off. The blue arrow points to a wire that doesn’t seem to do anything. There is only one switch that controls this light. Why are there so many wires and why is one set dead all the time and one set hot all the time? The new light fixture had one white wire, one black wire and a ground and that is what I expected to see when I took the old one off.