This is an exterior light, no motion sensor. Cable 1 (2 hots, 1 neutral, no ground) runs from the main panel (2 handle-tied 15A breakers), in metallic conduit up to the bottom of this junction box. Cables 2 and 3 connect to Cable 1 inside the junction box. Cables 2 and 3 run into a junction box in the attic (I think, from last time I was up there). Cable 2 has 2 hots, neutral and ground. Cable 3 has hot, neutral, ground. Both Cable 2 and 3 get their power from Cable 1 (with the handled tied breakers shut off, everything in this junction box is de-energized). The red wire from Cable 1 and red wire from Cable 2 are spliced together. No red wire to the lights. The neutral/white from Cables 1 and 2 are spliced along with whites/neutrals to lights. The black wires from Cable 1 and 2 and the neutral/white from Cable 3 are spliced together. The black wire from Cable 3 is spliced with the blacks to the lights. Again, no motion sensor on this light assembly. This is on the same circuit as another external light that does have a motion sensor. However, as far as I can tell, when the switch for these lights (they share a switch) is on, this light stays on (the light with motion sensor goes off after initial power up). This seems strange to me - why have an external light that is steady on, on the same circuit and switch as an external light that has a motion sensor? The house has other motion sensor lights as well, so it really seems odd that the plan was to have this one external light (on side of house, with no doors on this side) stay steady on. At first I thought it must be wired to rely on the motion sensor from the light assembly on the same circuit, but that light assembly has only 1 hot wire running to it. There is another light assembly further away with motion sensor that isn't working (tough to reach, so I haven't yet checked whether issue is dead bulbs, dead motion sensor or just loose wiring, and whether it's on same circuit - I suspect it is). Why is it wired such that Cable 3's white is spliced with Cable 1/2 hot? So with breaker on, the white is always live, but the black is only live when the switch is on. Is it because the light assembly is before the switch in the circuit and they only ran 2 conductor cable from switch to light assembly? I want to add a motion sensor here. So I guess I can keep wiring exactly like it is and run hot from Cable 3 and neutral from Cable 2 to the motion sensor? Separately, there is no grounding screw or tapped hole in this box, so it looks like the ground wires from Cables 2 and 3 were just wrapped together and bent so that they made contact with inside perimeter of box. To correct this grounding situation and provide a proper ground fault current path for Cables 2 and 3, is the easiest option replacing this box? What I referred to as Cable 1 appears to be individual wires (2 hots, 1 neutral) run inside flexible metallic tubing from main panel to junction box inside house, then into LB then metallic conduit outside the house to junction box with the lights. Maybe I can fish a ground wire through by pulling the existing wires out at the LB trailed by pulling wire, and then pull existing wires and new ground wire back into place?

Need to get advice on what materials to use and configuration of bringing electric to my shed row barn. The closest source of electricity is a 50 amp spa breaker that I would like to pull electricity from, the barn is about 80 feet away from that source. Do I need a sub panel in the barn? If so is 100 amp what I need?I am going to be running three agricultural fans, lights a couple plugs in the workshop, a air compressor and a small refrigerator. The barn is only 50x25. Should I run direct burial or conduit?