Identifying light switch wires when colors don't match
Hello, this is my first visit to this site and I'm hoping someone can help me. I do moderate home repair projects but I'm always leary with electrical work. I'm trying to replace some standard light switches with wi-fi smart switches. The new switches say they require a neutral wire. My house was built in 2010 so I'm assuming they would have been required (I live in Chicago).
So after removing the cover plate, I see 2 red wires connected to the same screw and one black wire connected on the same side but in a separate position. On the reverse side of the switch I see 2 screws to which nothing is attached.
Now on the new Smart Switch there are four wires: one red, one black, one white and one green. Which ones get attached to the existing wires?? I am attaching pictures of both switches along with the diagram from the installation instructions from the mfg of how the connections should be made.
I can certainly use some guidance here. Thank you!
Wire connections on existing switch.
Opposite side of existing switch. two screws with nothing attached.
Wires on new smart switch. They are labeled: red=load, black=line, white=neutral, green=ground.
Colors can sometimes be misleading, so it's more important to see where they go rather than the actual color.
The red wire looped over the screw is likely your always-on 'hot' wire. It probably goes to the neighboring switch to provide power to the light you're working on as well as whatever's connected to the other switch.
While the loop over the switch is a code-compliant wiring method, it makes your work a bit harder, You'll need to either cut or splice that wire so you can use a wire nut to connect the black lead from your new switch. There are a few ways to do it, but in the end, that wire needs to be connected to the black of your new switch and the screw in the other switch.
As for neutral, there's probably a couple white wires stuffed in the back of the box all nutted together, that'll be your neutral to connect the white wire from your new switch.
Same with ground for your new switch - to the bundle of bare wires.
I think my guess is a good one - but we'll know for sure if you can take a picture including all the cables coming into the box and where they go.
Last note - the reason your old switch has an 'extra' unused screw is that they used a 3-way switch. No issue with doing that, but it's a useless terminal how it's being used. So you can just ignore it.
Someone used a three way switch for a normal switch. No problem there. You use the black and red as you power and load wires.
The green is ground. It connects to the box. There should be a screw in the bottom to put it under.
The white needs to connect to the neutrals. Being in Chicago you have conduit. It is possible there is no white wire in the box. If no white wire you will need to feed one though the conduit. With conduit neutrals are not required since you can add one if needed at any time.
Thanks guys. I had to take my dog to the vet so I will analyze the setup better tomorrow and and give it a try.
And in response to Zorfdt's comment as to "what's the worse that could happen?" Well, if I don't spark an electrical fire when I turn the circuit breaker back on, I figure I could be telling Alexa to "shut off the light" and the Roomba would start vacuuming! (only kidding, the IT part I have no problem with. I currently have 24 wi-fi enabled "smart devices" running.
The fan is working fine on my ceiling fan. But the lights will not come on... when I pull the chain I get a click, but nothing, not even a flicker. Since the chain is getting a good solid click which I can hear when I pull it, I'm assuming that the fan light switch is okay.
I've attached a link to photos of my ceiling fan and it's wiring. A couple things I need to explain: the black box in photo number two, you can read the print on it if you enlarge the picture. Also, in picture number two there are blue and white white wires. They attach to the black and white wires on the piece that the lights are on.
Thanks, in advance if you can help me fix this. If you reply, please keep in mind that I know next to nothing about this kind of stuff, so please explain as if you were speaking to a 4-year-old. I take direction very well.
[url=https://postimg.cc/gallery/7z59MF8]Pics of my ceiling fan[/url]
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Hello all.
First post here with a question, but hopefully will be able to contribute as well.
I'm an Electrical/Construction Engineer in the oil and gas industry. Since my layoff several months ago, I've been fortunate enough to put my hands on exp to use around my community. Putting up TV'S, recessed lighting soffit lighting...etc.
Lately i have been asked to install a chandelier in an 18ft ceiling. This wouldn't be an Issue generally except for one problem. The HVAC system sits directly over the fixture. The chandelier i plan on installing weighs around 50lbs and i'm pretty sure the box IS NOT rated for it.. my question is how to go about getting the box that is in place removed and an expandable box put in without drywall work. I've seen several done in my neighborhood after the fact and was told by the homeowner that they did not damage the drywall when they installed it. However they had no idea in regards to the details.
Is it a matter of just cutting the box out and leaving the old braces in place?
Ive attached 2 photos and you can see in the rough photo the base for the HVAC system so there is no way to access it from the top.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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12-18-20, 10:25 AM
Identifying light switch wires when colors don't match
