I bought a Woods brand timer switch to replace the basic toggle switch supporting a bathroom ceiling fan. The timer switch has 4 wires (black, red, white, and green). When I removed the wall plate covering the two old switches, I see 5 white wires simply clustered together at the ends with a large wire nut. See attached photo.
In order to avoid removing that wire nut, could I just cut one of the white wires and connect it to the white wire on the new timer switch, leaving that large red wire nut in place?
Another question: when I removed the wall plate, the ground wire was held in place by the bottom screw holding the switch. To connect that copper ground wire to the ground wire of a timer switch, does the bare copper ground wire still need to be somehow in contact with the junction box?
NO ALL the whites need to remain connected and your new timer white has to be added to the bundle. If the bundle gets too large then you can split it in half and join the two halves with a short jumper.
All the grounds must connected together and to the metal box.
Well, 5 white wires are connected together, making the bundle very stiff and not easy to work with. What is likely to happen if I remove the red wire connector connecting the five white wires? Might they fall apart? Should I try wrapping some electrical tape around them before removing the wire connector?
Take them apart and add you new wire. Have a larger size nut available to use if you need it, They might fall apart. They might be twisted enough to stay together. You will just need to deal with when you take the nut off. If you don't think you can do that, then you will have call someone who can.
That's an old switch with no ground screw. Composite box.... not metal. Either upgrade to a new switch or leave the ground behind the yoke. The other ground will connect to the green on your new switch.
I finished installing the timer switch. I also replaced the old light switch - see left side of photo - with a dimmer switch. Getting both these new switching devices crammed into the box was challenging but they are installed and working.
Hi. I have very little experience with rewiring a lamp. Just the basics. I own a Toucan lamp from the 70s. (Full disclosure: It’s a knockoff, made in Hong Kong.) The socket for the lightbulb is inferior, which makes the lamp unsafe. (See attached pics.) I want to upgrade it, replacing the socket, either with an incandescent or LED socket. (Currently it uses an [color=#000000]S11 intermediary base lightbulb.)[/color]
Is it possible to get a socket that can fit in the holder built into the beak (aka is that a standard-sized piece?) or do I need to think bigger, i.e. improvising a way to install a new, safer socket?
Thanks!
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/toucan_lamp_1_554975b305aa8b7c3b5c2f603d45a1fdd21e4f32.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/toucan_lamp_2_18808a6027f2eff7044818823ef57db5b6cb8777.jpg[/img]
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[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/toucan_lamp_4_6b7cfa94f2ee7d6db9c9e7a486ab412c737fdba5.jpg[/img]
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We have a Mercator ceiling fan/light in our 2 bedrooms, each fan was controlled by a seperate remote up until yesterday. The remote for our bedroom fan stopped working however the remote for our son's bedroom now works for our fan but controls both fans at the same time. The dip switches on the remotes are different, our remote had all the dip switches down whereas the other remote that works had down, up, up, down. We have removed the fan canopy and cannot find the receiver to check the dip switch positions on the receiver and the LCD screen on the remote that no longer works still has images on it when we press buttons on the remote. Any advice on where we may find the receiver or any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
12-31-20, 09:34 AM
