If you install lights in a closet beware there are specific clearances that need to be followed.
The type of light you use will depend on the size of the closet. If it is a small closet the only place you can locate a light fixture is above the door.
I have installed LED strip lights around a door frame in our pantry that is switched by a magnetic switch on the door. All that is needed is a receptacle for the wall wart.
You can use bulbs that operate from 120 vac or 12 vdc. Your home electrical system most likely has components that are UL approved and connected to meet National Electrical Code requirements. All components have primary voltage of 120/240 vac. For 120 vac bulbs, just add the components rated for 120 vac and connect them to existing electrical system. To use a 12 vdc bulb, you need to engineer another electrical system. You need a 120 vac to 12 vdc converter with a wattage rating exceeding the 12 vdc bulb rating times number of bulbs. You need to determine where to place the converter between the breaker panel and the closet and size the wires for 120 vac and 12 vdc appropriately. I would also fuse the 12 vdc source.
I prefer line voltage (120VAC) fixtures. In end it really doesn't matter because the LED is powered the same. The difference is a separate power supply and wiring... more complex. I like having the power supply as part of the fixture. With a 12 VDC system there needs to be a separate power supply to feed the fixture and I don't like the idea of using two things when one can do the job.
I'd definitely go for a 120v fixture. Unless there's a good reason to go 12v, it'll give you more options in terms of fixtures and future replacements.
They also have motion activated fixtures and switches which I personally like for closets as it turns the lights on and off without worrying about forgetting to turn them off.
I've installed a number of 4" LED recessed fixtures in closet ceilings. They run on 120v.
I like using Lithonia and Halo. Two high quality companies. Roughly $20 per fixture.
I use the ones with the separate driver box for better heat control and longer life.
I carry a 4" carbide hole saw for installing them anywhere.
If you install lights in a closet beware there are specific clearances that need to be followed.
The type of light you use will depend on the size of the closet. If it is a small closet the only place you can locate a light fixture is above the door.
I have installed LED strip lights around a door frame in our pantry that is switched by a magnetic switch on the door. All that is needed is a receptacle for the wall wart.
If it is a small closet the only place you can locate a light fixture is above the door.
Really good point. That’s exactly what I found when I did mine – had to be above the door. I remember rules like 12 inches from shelves and 24 inches from rear, or something like that, and other dimensions. Only above the door would satisfy the requirements. Think you have to read the NEC.
My sons bedroom light flickers off and on sometimes when I turn my bedroom light on. It’s not every time but sometimes is very obvious. His light is on an LED dimmer that is new. Does this sound normal?
Got these two 60W (equivalent) LED light bulbs installed about a year ago, one on a night table and the other in the wall and they both stopped working about days apart.. Surprise....I thought these new LED’s supposed to work almost forever? When I tried to replace one as I was unscrew it it flickered on/off so I though perhaps a bad connection? I checked the socket’s contacts and they looked ok so I try to get it to a spot that’s ON but soon I let it go it went off. Same for the other one. I managed to get the one by the wall to stay on but after a few days I have to play with it again to find the “sweet” spot and it works, for now!!!
Is anything known about these new LED bulbs? Perhaps something is loose inside the bulb? Kind of expensive to through away after 1 year and replace with another LED? What a racket.....
01-12-21, 08:40 PM
