I'm interested in replacing a recessed light with a flushmount fixture.
I took out the recessed light, and the housing was basically just pressure fit in the ceiling hole in the drywall, (I have attached a picture to show what it looks like now that I popped out the housing for the recess lighting) and I have 2 questions:
1. How do a safely secure the electrical box for the long run, and set this thing up so it can bare the load of the heavier flush mount? I do have very easy access to the close joist.
2. I am hoping I can get a quick response on this one - Is there a way I can safely tuck the electrical box back up there, and have the bulb hanging out the hole and be able turn the breaker back on for the next few days? What precautions do I need to take before turning the breaker back on?
Is that metal clad cable your house wiring? Or is there a junction box a few inches into the ceiling? I thought most recessed lights had a separate wiring box, but it's been ages since I've seen an eyeball fixture.
If that's your house wiring, that can just go into the junction box for your new light. If there's another box up there, that's what would be disconnected.
For your new box, I'd get a box similar to this one. (This one is a fan-rated box, which you don't need - but you get the idea). It's easy to directly attach to the joist. https://www.garvinindustries.com/msbfan
Another option is to get a fan box with an expandable bar. Again, you don't need the fan-rating, but it makes it really easy to center or adjust the spacing of the box between two joists, without having to cut out more drywall.
Lastly, an inexpensive ceiling box with bar can be used too, but might be a bit of a challenge to get nailed/screwed into the second joist.
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And I agree with Pete, no issue with stuffing it back into the ceiling for a temporary solution.
There is a junction box above the ceiling but with that type of can, the only other component is the trim.
What size is the hole in the ceiling? There are a couple of options out there but the hole size will determine what will work.
*edit* I may have misunderstood what you are trying to do. If you want to install a surface-mounted fixture google "can converter" and you will find options.
Last edited by Tolyn Ironhand; 01-30-21 at 06:59 AM.
I did use the light "as is" over the weekend thanks To PJMax's quick response.
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Tolyn Ironhand - I found the can converter online, however, I am a bit nervous because of the way this eyeball was fairly easy to pull out of the hole. I don't want to risk adding more weight to it, but appreciate the idea very much.
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Zorfdt - Your response was extra detailed and helpful. it turns out you are correct that there is a box beside the hole (no other fixtures I've worked on in my house are like this).
The expandable bar looks like a simple solution and "overkill" for weight rating (in a good way), so I think we've found an answer here!
The existing box is a sort of "enclosed", square box, where as I'm used to seeing open boxes in my home (like your recommendations). The existing one might take a bit of fiddling with for me to figure out how to open it up and get it out of there -especially working up above my head - so I just want to make sure you are saying I need to take out the existing one? (ie, I cannot or should not run wires from the square box and then into the fan box I will be installing.
You are correct there is another box up there on the other side of the flex - but it's an enclosed square box. Any other boxes I have worked with in my house have been open boxes.
Also, there is a metal ring above the hole in the ceiling, the hole is 7 inches.
Hi, the metal ring was probably in that hole to support the trim, not quite sure what a enclosed box means, however that box should or the cable that is in it should be used to feed your new fixture, it won’t be able to be buried above the ceiling.
Geo 🇺🇸
So I have myself in a jam with wiring I totally buggered up. Maybe some one can straighten me out.
I have a split level house. My switches are
a switch on the bottom landing (box 1), a switch on the actual landing (box 2) and a switch on the upper landing (box 3).. and they go to a single overhead light.
my issues comes in that box 2 has the power from the circuit and also goes to the light.
I have looked at a lot of wiring diagrams but haven’t found any that address my layout. I’m thinking that box 2 would be a 4 way switch and the top and bottom landings would be 3 way switches, it I have myself confused. Hope someone can straighten me out.
Even cheap range hoods now use a 7" round hole. (they also offer rectangular holes though). Unfortunately, I can only find 6" hole saws at home depot and menards. Where do I even find 7" vent parts for a range hood? Am I better off going with the rectangular vent installation?
01-28-21, 02:51 PM
