Hoping to get a little help on what I expected to be a simple replacement. We bought an old house which had the outside lights on a programmable timer. The timer cannot be reprogrammed because it connects to a phone app via an audio jack which my phone doesn't have. So currently my lights are turning on at odd times.
Here was the prior set up and all testing of wires was done with both switches removed:
Original timer had hot wires connected to the line (black) and the traveler (red) screws. Both the red and black wires came from the same romex. The load screw had two black wires and the neutral was pigtailed in the box. No ground connected.
The second 3-way has only two wires. Both the red and white are hot. The white pigtails in the box with multiple black wires.
My new Honeywell timer has a common, and wires 1 & 2.
I would appreciate advice on connecting the new timer.
Thanks,
Steve
Original timer Original timer Original timer wiring 2nd 3-way 2nd 3-way wiring New Timer
You don't need the white wire. Remove it from the wire nut with the other whites.
red wire to #2.
The two black are the load. Connect to #1.
The single black is the power connect to C and to the black from the same cable as the red. The other switch should have the black and red connected. The white gets capped.
I'm still confused by the prior switch configuration. I don't understand why there are two hot wires on both switches.
I think I understand the wiring you recommend for the new timer.
But I just need a little clarification about the 2nd switch. It originally had only two wires: red and white.
Joed: "The other switch should have the black and red connected. The white gets capped."
So the red stays connected. If the white gets capped, can I just remove it from it's pigtail?
There are two pigtails of black wires: one with a yellow cap and one with a red cap. Which black wire should connect to the 2nd switch?
Thanks!
I am trying to change a light fixture on a 3 way switch. I have checked the switch legs on both switches and they appear to be correct but one of the wires to the light fixture is always hot. House is over 150 years old all wires are solid strand and black. I cannot see where the hot wire is coming from our why it is continuously hot.
About a year and a half ago, we installed a flush mount LED ceiling fixture. It worked very well until last week, when it began doing the following:
When you hit the wall switch, the light would go on for a few seconds, then either shut off, or dim significantly.
If you then cycle the wall switch- off-on- the light would work normally and stay on until you shut it off..
Anybody encounter this situation? Is it the light, the LEDs, the switch or ? Suggestions?
I'm guessing that it is only a matter of time until I'll need to replace the light.
Thanks in advance.
03-10-21, 01:57 PM
