Rewiring switched outlet to ceiling light


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Old 05-26-21, 11:32 AM
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Rewiring switched outlet to ceiling light

Hi all,
I need to rewire a switched outlet (located at the normal height on the wall behind hutch in my photo). The three-way switches are located on the walls at the very left and right edge of the photo. I'll be installing a new box and chandelier in the middle of this room that will be switched. Looking for advice in particular on how best to run the cable and minimize the number of drywall holes I need to patch. There's no access from above. The ceiling joists run perpendicular to the stairs, so from the wall opening away, if that makes sense. I've got a cold air return vent there as well. Not sure how that might figure into things.

Also, I want to make the existing outlet always hot. If somebody can point me to how to change the wiring, that would also be helpful. I have some electrical experience and several books, so not too worried about that. More worried about how to attack running the cable and minimizing drywall cuts.
Appreciate any advice. Thanks!
 

Last edited by PJmax; 05-26-21 at 11:55 AM. Reason: labeled pic
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Old 05-26-21, 12:02 PM
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Took the liberty of labeling your picture for discussion.
Two 3w switches.... A and B control a receptacle behind that hutch.
The easiest part of the job is making the receptacle always live.

Looking at the locations of the boxes in that room.... common sense would dictate the feed comes into B. The load/receptacle is connected at A. However... there are many ways of wiring it. I don't know exactly where your new light will be but based on the switch locations it is certainly closer to B. The joists allow for an easier path to switch B. That would make the circuit backwards for this application.

Your next step is to pull out both switches.... without removing the wires. Check the black/dark terminal on each switch and tell us which one is always live. Describe the wiring you see in the box or post pictures.
 
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Old 05-27-21, 10:33 AM
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Appreciate the help on this!

A switch:



B switch:


I hope that is clear. And yes, I plan to remove the back stabs!
 
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Old 05-27-21, 07:55 PM
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The back stabs are not as much of a problem on light switches as it is with receptacles.
Lighting load is much lighter.

I think my assumption was correct. I see three cables in switch box B.
Looks like power in, power out/thru and three way traveler.
Box A has two cables. Load out to receptacle and three way traveler

You can confirm by checking from the dark screw to ground at each switch.
At one switch... it will be hot regardless of switch position.
A meter or two lead voltage checker should be used.

Again... if my assumption is still correct.... we've got some problems here.
The diagram illustrates what you have.

The wiring is not in place to make the receptacle always live.
Switched power is only available at switch A.
You'd have to take the feed to the light from switch box A.

Actually there is a way it could be done. You would put in an electronic switch in box B. It would be a wireless type switch so that you put a wireless controller at the A switch location. Then you connect the new light at the A or B switch and make the receptacle always live. You can control it with apps but it is not necessary. It is a standalone wireless system. Highly recommended. It's also a dimmer.
Lutron Caseta w/Pico control
 
 

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