We have an existing wall switch to control our family room ceiling fan. There are 3 wires - black, white and red and the wall switch could control fan lights and fan separately. We had an electrician install recessed lighting and he ran the wiring for the recessed lights off of the ceiling fan box (see attached photo). He then rewired the wall switch to control just the recessed lights - leaving the ceiling fan box hot. End result is that we now can control a fan only from the wires attached to the fan. I'd like to be able to control the fan from the wall again - and separate from the recessed lights. There is another switch on this wall outlet (see photo) that controls an outlet. I'd like to convert that outlet to always hot and somehow control the fan with a dual (lights and fan) switch.
There are 3 wires - black, white and red and the wall switch could control fan lights and fan separately.
Ok. That makes perfect sense.
My take on the situation.....
Two wall switches - originally one controlled fan and one controlled the lights on the fan.
Recessed lights were installed and connected to ceiling fan box.
OR.... was one of the wall switches always the receptacles and the other was just the fan ?
So that means a three wire cable was run down to the switches from the fan for future use. One wire was used for the fan and one was capped off. It should be possible to rewire the receptacle for the switches for always live and convert that switch to ceiling use.
If you wanted to maintain the one switch still controlling the receptacles.... you could leave the existing switch as it is and change the fan switch to a dual switch like in the picture or use a dedicated dual fan control.
Either way we need to see the wiring inside the switch box. Pull the switches out without removing then wiring and post a picture for us...... how-to-insert-pictures.
Pic 1: Hard to see but in back of box - 2 white wires wired together and 4 black together. Both the main line feeding into top of box have black, red and white wires; same for main line in from the bottom of the box.
Pic 2 - dimmer switch for recessed lights that used to be the fan switch.
Great pics.
Just to confirm...... only 2) three wire cables in the box..... correct ?
The only reason I ask is that it looks like three white wires.
Based on only two cables....
black - hot in
red - switched receptacles (take off of receptacle switch and attach to 4 wire black splice)
white - neutral in
black - hot to fan (move the black wire of this three wire cable from splice to receptacle switch)
red - hot to lights
white - neutral for fan and lights.
GREAT catch on the other white wire. There is a 3rd feed at the left bottom of the box (see photo) just has black and white - no red. The 2nd pic is of the ceiling box. Looks like the electrician used the red wire to feed the recessed lights. He told me to use the black wire when I put in a new fan.
Starting at the fan box.....
I see 2) two wire cables and 1) three wire cable. Based on the splices the 2) two wire cables are for the recessed lights and are fed off the red wire. The fan is connected to the black of the three wire cable.
You have an additional two wire cable at the switch box but it should not change my instructions in post 6. The amount of wires in the splices may change though.
Three wire cable to receptacle.
black - hot in
red - switched receptacles (take red off of receptacle switch and attach to 4/5 wire black splice)
white - neutral in
Three wire cable to fan.
black - hot to fan (move the black wire of this three wire cable from splice to receptacle switch)
red - switched hot to lights
white - neutral for fan and lights.
Thank you. I *think* I understand but have a question. In the ceiling fan box, the red is being used as the hot wire to feed the recessed lights - correct? So how would I wire this box to separately control the fan and the fan lights as well as the recessed lights? The fan has a black feed, white feed and blue which I assume to be the other hot line.
Sorry..... I don't see a blue wire at the fan box.
You have a three wire cable connecting the switches to the fan box.
That is two switching circuits.
Yes..... the red is currently connected to the recessed lights. That is one switching circuit.
The black is currently always live. You will be converting it to switched. So if you do have a separate light wire for the fan (blue).... it gets connected along with the fan or the recessed lights.
Usually there is a black and blue wire when the pull chains are used with no remote control. If you have a wireless fan controller than there shouldn't be a blue wire floating around.
The blue line is on the fan - not coming from the box - sorry for the confusion. If I run the blue line (fan lights I think?) from the fan to the red and black feed, then the fan lights will dim along with the recessed lights - at least I think so. So looks like my only choice may be a wireless wall control for the fan if I want to be able to separately dim the recessed lights and fan lights. Does this sound correct to you? Thank you for the assistance.
I'm replacing an old florescent light fixture on the first floor where there was no junction box. I want to install a fan rated box and brace (no access from above) though I'm only doing a light fixture right now, I want to have the option for something heavier later. Got a [url=https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-15-3-cu-in-Remodel-Construction-Ceiling-Fan-Brace-with-1-1-2-in-Box-CMB150-OB/205383178]box/brace kit[/url]cut the hole in the ceiling, then found a problem. The drywall isn't attached to the joists in the ceiling. Instead, there are 2x4s laying flat under the joists, running perpendicular. This means the bottom of the joists are a good 1.5" above the sheetrock, so I can't attach the brace to those and have the box accessible outside the drywall. The perpendicular 2x4s aren't tall enough to accommodate the bracket either.
Any ideas on how to mount a junction box in this situation? Because of the location of joists and the 2x4s, mounting a box directly to those isn't an option.
Thanks
I bought a [URL=https://northernlighttechnologies.ca/product/sadelite-desk-lamp/]SADELITE[/URL] a few years ago and my replacement ballast died (again!) Does a better one exist that is full-power (Ballast Factor >1.00)
I used a Fulham RHA-254-LT5 it, fits well the actual ballast does I had to break one of the mounting feet off it is still mounted securely though.
I can't use one of those advance ones as they are like 2' long and this 9.5" one barely fit!
The older Fulham RHA-254-LT5 listed the FT-36 (PL-L 36/DT-36 each manufacturer has their own name for the long twin 2G11 lamps!) The new ones dropped that lamp type and the one I bought is one of those!
Did this contribute to why it died?
This fixture is not long enough for the 40W ones either.
I have a stack of the FT-36 (5000K) lamps so I'd really love to get this working again.
Also what does "Current Crest Factor" mean?
New data sheet on the left older version on the right side.
Thanks
[img]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1299/fulham_ballast_81956e5979b0692cce4590e4a80abd8036e93bdd.jpg[/img]
07-23-21, 08:13 AM
