This fan is on craigslist and the poster can’t identify the make/model. Yes, I gave instructions on where to find it, but think they don’t have ability to access it. So, was wondering if anyone recognized at least this fan’s Maker so I can research for its Model number. I need the manual so I can look up specs. I need a fan that will flush mount and only hang about 12-14 inches down from the ceiling.
There are now way too many fans on the market to be able to identify specific ones.
I have sat and looked thru many pictures but now there are just too many.
If the ID is anywhere it's on the backside.
A tall ladder will be needed.
How is the seller going to remove the fan ?
Is anybody aware of a single gang light switch cover that lights up when the power is on? I am not looking for a "night light" cover with a light sensor because the area in question is always a little dark, so I doubt it would ever turn off. I am also not looking for a pilot or locator switch. What I'd really like is an AC version of this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/200-lumen-led-super-bright-flip-light-64723.html
As you may have guessed, the switch is on a 3-way circuit (two switches controlling a single light). I was hoping to go this route instead of adding a battery powered light in the stairway or enlarging the existing switch to a double gang and putting a light of some kind in there.
Any suggestions?
Here's the idea.
The "Humidistat" kicks on the fan when the humidity gets above 70%. I've got all that wired up well and good.
What I want is to add a 'switch override' (LEFT, diagram), so I can manually turn on the fan when needed, humidity be damned.
My thinking is to run a wire between the HOT (B) and LOAD, with a simple switch.
Normally the circuit will be completed only when the humidistat connects B to LOAD, and on to the fan, and out.
Will it blow a fuse, connecting the HOT on the Humidistat, directly to the LOAD?
I think it won't matter at all if its not above 70%, but wonder if it will still be OK if the hot current goes both ways, from B to load through the device, and also through the switch.
Since it still can run out to the fan, and on to the neutral wire.
I'd test it out, but I thought I'd ask first, because I don't want to bust the humidity detector.
Anyone?
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1063x816/switch_1dac0496431e3f5507df05ecea8f9cedb2fd07e4.png[/img]