I've a couple of light bulbs on light-activated fixtures on the outside of my house (pictures attached). These wouldn't turn on in the night (as they are supposed to) - for that matter wouldn't turn on anytime of the day (have been there for almost a decade). So I tried to replace the bulbs and it just shattered. I have one picture where the bulb is broken and the other one where it is in pretty bad shape (i.e. when I try to pull it holding the glass piece it is close to breaking). I got a pair of pliers to try to pull these out but wasn't successful. The shape of the fixture is such that you have to rely on pulling the bulb by holding the glass portion (i.e. can't directly access the plastic base). I've no idea how do I pull this frikking thing out and replace it. Good news is that I can find a replacement bulb since I took a picture of the specifications (attached). But what good is a replacement bulb when I can't pull these out?! Please help! Can make a trip to Home Depot to get the right tool if necessary.
broken one on its last leg... specifications
Those CFLs are the most horrible light bulbs ever made. I had 9 of them in my house and they would almost always break when I had to change them (and they burned out constantly).
You should be able to get to the base of the bulb by pulling off and removing the trim. Then try grabbing the base of the bulb with rubber gloves on.
I found this such a pain that I replaced all 9 of my cans with normal medium-base cans and am now happily using LED floodlights instead of the horrible CFLs.
I haven't heard of that company before and am not familiar with their products. A triple tube 42w CFL bulb would typically be a four pin push-in base like a PL-T-42W
With a thin piece of metal bent with a right angle on the end.... you could grab the back side of the lamp plug and pull it straight down to remove bulb.
I had a couple more thoughts while drowsing off to sleep that I thought I'd share before nodding off...
Your sockets might clip into the trim. Mine did. So it will be easier to get the remains of the old lamps out if you pull out the trim. Just stick your fingernails under the rim and pull straight out. The socket and lamp should come with it and then you'll have easier access. My 4-pin sockets had 2 small wings on the sides that clipped into the trim. The trim could not be separated from the socket without first removing the lamp. Here's what mine looked like with the trim & bulb removed. The socket just dangles from its wires.
If you choose to replace the CFL with (ugh) the same type of bulb, coat the bulb's plastic plug with Vaseline before plugging it in. It will be easier to remove when it burns out in 6 months.
Last edited by RocketJSquirrel; 11-16-21 at 12:01 AM.
Thank you for the valuable advice. I'll give it a shot. And yes, these bulbs are horrible in terms of both reliability and removability.
By the way, do you know where are the light sensors located on these fixtures? I tried to look inside and around the trim but couldn't find the light sensor that activates/deactivates these lights.
For some of those bi-pin or quad-pin CFLs, you have to twist them a little before you can pull them out. It will depend on the socket. Also, try rolling the socket as you pull it down. That sometimes helps.
Hi,
I got a used chandelier and when installing it I noticed it has 2 pair of cables going in (two identical pair of cables). See example as clarification.
Ceiling
----------------------------------
|(H). |(N) |(G)
|(1.1) |(1.2) |(2.1). |(2.2). |(G)
-------------------------------------------------------------
chandelier
Initially I decided to wire H to 1.1 and 2.1 and N to 1.2 and 2.2. Turning the light on blew the switch for some reason.
I turned off power and just wired H to 1.1 and N to 1.2 and left 2.1 and 2.2 not wired. Turned on power and it works but for some reason not all lights turn on.
1) Why the chandelier has 2 pairs of wires going in?
2) Do I need to rewrite this in a different way?
I shut off the breaker and removed the old light. When I installed the led light the breaker had no effect on it. It would not shut off when the switch was on.