After replacing all my track light heads, none of the lights power on. Prior to installing the last one all others were working. What would cause this and how to fix? This is an H style track. I have checked the breaker box twice and reset it anyway. If the last head is bad that would not cause all others to go out, right?
Thanks!
IIRC, I had to make a special fixture to measure the voltage to the track. Regular VOM test prods didn't work, maybe I bent paper clips but also had to insulate them, plus I had to work on a ladder.
If the tracks are tarnished and so there's a bad connection between the light & the track, there is no easy way to fix this.
Check power at the feed end first. If there is power at the track then check to make sure the heads are correct. There are three types of track. H (Halo), J (Juno), and L (Lightolier) make sure your heads are correct for the track you have.
No, if one head goes out they will not all go out.
Compare the track connector of your old fixtures to the new.
If they are track type H. That is Halo and others like Hampton Bay. It will have three visible pins.
Also make sure they are installed in the correct orientation. They can be forced in backwards.
Thank you to all who answered!
I have H style track.
All the lights are H style.
I have checked the connectors.
I have 8 track head lights.
I installed 7 new lights, checking every time to ensure each one worked. I had 7 new lights working and 1 old one.
After removing the old one and installing the 8th new light, NONE OF THEM WORKED.
7 NEW WERE WORKING
AFTER 8TH INSTALL, NONE WORKED.
So, in other words, I did everthing each of you said to try, everything was done prior to my first post.
I know that problem well..... you lost the connection between the track and the starter end where the wire connects. Double check the starter is fully inserted into the track.
When you disconnect all the fixtures and then start reattaching them.... the copper bus bars that the heads connect to can slide and sometimes one will slide away from the starter end. If a bus bar has slid you can see it at the end cap opposite from the starter end. Many times I've had to remove the heads and slightly tap the end of the bar with a screwdriver and hammer towards the starter end.
Copper bus bars. In picture they are excessively slid out of the track.
To all who have replied, thank you very much. Many possible answers. I did not see an issue with the bus bars, however, I am installing new track which I needed to do anyway due to the color change.
I tested the wires in light switch and at the connection box, nothing. I am hoping it is a false reading because I will have to call an electrician if the problem is in the wiring. If it is, that means a faulty fixture blew the wiring in that circuit.I will attempt many fixes, but I admit it was a little scary probing live wires that did not test live.
Thanks again, I will update when the problem is resolved.
,,,and yes, I took the 8th new light out and put the old one back in and nothing. I took the 8th out and turned on, nothing lit.
Hello, I'm designing some lamps using standard bulbs and want to mount the socket right into a wooden base, as in the photos. My lighting supplier has many different types of sockets. Which type is recommended? Thanks for reading.
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Hi,
I got a used chandelier and when installing it I noticed it has 2 pair of cables going in (two identical pair of cables). See example as clarification.
Ceiling
----------------------------------
|(H). |(N) |(G)
|(1.1) |(1.2) |(2.1). |(2.2). |(G)
-------------------------------------------------------------
chandelier
Initially I decided to wire H to 1.1 and 2.1 and N to 1.2 and 2.2. Turning the light on blew the switch for some reason.
I turned off power and just wired H to 1.1 and N to 1.2 and left 2.1 and 2.2 not wired. Turned on power and it works but for some reason not all lights turn on.
1) Why the chandelier has 2 pairs of wires going in?
2) Do I need to rewrite this in a different way?
11-17-21, 09:50 AM
track lighting trouble
