Previous owner had ceiling light fan combo powered from a receptacle. There's a normal, light switch by the door. So I expected when I pulled down the fan to find a hole and a lead, but there was nothing. Ceiling looked new. Well!
The issue is the ceiling is vaulted type, no attic access. The only way I see this working out is to put such as a Raceway non-metallic PVC surface mounted on the wall, from the light switch, up the wall to the ceiling, along the ceiling to a position of choice. Is this code compliant to pass city inspection?

or how else can a solution be accomplished here?

Location Balch Springs, Dallas County Texas.

Wiremold Non-Metallic PVC Raceway 5 ft. Wire Channel, White

 

Yes. A surface-mounted raceway is a code-compliant method to get wires to the fan location. You will need to install a surface-mounted box that is rated to support a fan. Likely this may require the use of a metallic surface raceway.

 

That will work.

How is the fan powered now?

 

Fan is removed at the moment.
Since there's a regular switch, 1 gang type on the wall by the door, do I have to use the box below? Because I think the raceway is not gonna be code appropriate where it butts the regular faceplate.

 

Can you screw a ceiling fan straight into the joists using 2, 3inch long screws for a tight secure fit? It's a vaulted ceiling, with no attic access. It's also not flat from left to right. I used a stud finder and this is the located joist spot-where fan "cup" is located.

 

Eventually I got pancake style steel fan box. Everything was upto code and passed.

IS this a fire risk?
But I have a serious question. I re-used the same wire that previous owner had powering each of the two fans, one in each BR. I hard-wired the wires into the raceway switch and conduit into the fans/lights. This wire is the stranded type, each with a plug on one end, used to be plugged into a receptacles to power the fans/lights. They are marked 18 AWG 300V 105 degrees.
Question - 1
There's a chance the breaker that powers these two BR is 20amp. In that case is this wire gauge size a problem, pro'ly a fire risk?

Question - 2
If the breaker is a regular 15amp same question or is this wire ok? If not can I use a THHN 14GA stranded wire or what should be the proper wire type/GA?
(I won't be at the location until sometime this weekend to verify breaker amps. However, if I can get some info I can plan ahead)

So far the fans/lights have been working ok, no breakers tripped, nothing. But I saw a video that got me concerned about wire sizing to breaker amps.

Here is the remaining piece of the wire I re-installed

 

That is zip cord or extension cord wiring. That is not approved for use in a raceway and is definitely not heavy enough for that use. You need to use the same size wiring in the raceway that the circuit is fused at. Some raceway systems uses individual conductors and some use Nm-b (romex) cable.

 

In the attic I found enough length of 12 or 14ga Romex remnant. It's the type with a paper sheathing on the inside around the ground wire??? with a black & white wires. It's the same one used in the house, visible in the attic, inside receptacles, etc . I can update a pic later but this should be aok?

 

Here is a pic of the romex remainder I found in the attic. I a must trying to make sure I follow safety and code here with your help. Again it's the same one that's used through out the house.

 

I would use it if it is the correct gauge..
It must #12 to go on a 20 amp or 15 amp circuit.
#14 can only go on a 15 amp circuit. The gauge should be printed on the cable jacket.

 

It's a #12 on the jacket and breaker is 20amp. All receptacles in the two bedrooms and both celing fans/lights are all powered from the same line.

Just to have more understanding for myself as a DIY enthusiast, quick question is, I believe the ceiling fans commonly have #14 wires on them, is this aok, considering the line wire all the way back to the breaker is #12?