CFL to LED conversion - missing ballasts wiring question
New member, low voltage tech (ethernet, clocks, bells, telco), home DIY asking a question on converting CFL to LED lighting in kitchen.
I have 5 old CFL lamps that are being replaced with LED recessed lamps.
I took one lamp out and found a ballast. Cut out the ballast (see photos) and wired the white/black wires direct to the LED lamp to a switch and worked perfect.
Then the problem:
3 other lamps have NO ballasts but has red/blue wiring in a junction box.
Using the white/black wires, I figured they were switched as well.
Nope - won't power up.
Why ?
The old CF lamps used to power up fine which tells me the wiring is intact.
Are the other CF lamps - without ballasts, getting their power from a single ballast somewhere else??
Original CFL Ballast cut out of one lamp Empty junction box (no ballast) CFL wiring
The ballast is there, it is just on the other side of the box. Follow the wires going through the hole in the back of the box.
The other option would be to just cut the wires going through the hold and connect the blues to the neutral (white) and the reds to the hot (black) in the junction box
Hi- I’m redoing a small bathroom and I’d like to add a light over the bathroom sink which did not exist previously. Running the electrical won’t be an issue since I’ve removed the bottom half of the drywall. However, there apparently is a plumbing vent running right up the middle of the wall so I won’t be able to install a full size electrical box. I assume I can use some sort of shallow box? I won’t be able to attach it to a stud unless I remove the drywall.
thoughts?
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I am looking for a brand that has a BR30 LED, 65watt equivalent, 2700k that does not have a slight delayed start after flicking the switch. I had the brand Utilitech BR30s and they were instant, but are not available at Lowes any longer. So far I have tried Sylvania and GE BR30s, and they both have the same slight millisecond delay when flicking the switch.
I have noticed that most of the LED bulbs have a plastic shell. When the lights get a bunch of hours on them, the plastic start to turn yellowish and effects the light output. Wonder if there are any glass BR30s to try?