I am trying to rewire my West Elm light which has been flicking a lot and not really working lately. This is what my wiring looks like from the ceiling box with two sets of wires despite the only switch in the room having one set. When I connect the fixture to the hot and neutral from the same wire set I trip the breaker. When I connect with the hot and a neutral from the other wire set I get flickering. Any thoughts? Hot has been confirmed with a voltage tester (117) and the three other wires are not registering voltage.
Last edited by PJmax; 02-18-22 at 11:22 AM.
Reason: resized pics/labeled 1
B1 is hot. I’ve tried W1 thinking that was most natural and the light either always stayed regardless of switch, tripped the breaker, or didn’t work. W2 I just tried and it just flickers and goes off.
VERY important..... when working with older wiring don't bend it sharply where it comes out of the connector. You are going to have problems there with bare wire hitting the connector. If that happens.... you'll be in a bad place as it is very hard to replace missing insulation.
You opened the splice in the box that was not connected to the light and should not have been touched...... connect B1 and W2 back together and cap it.
B2 is black/switched to the fixture and W1 is white/neutral.
This is what you have there.......
Last edited by PJmax; 02-18-22 at 02:02 PM.
Reason: typo
If you identified the hot wire correctly then it may be time to call an electrician.
It looks like the wiring is shorted at the connectors where it enters the box.
[color=#383a3b]Hello everyone.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]I want to put outdoor lights (14 lights 50wats each) on my detached building. (280x 20 ft) . My mane panel 130 ft away from building.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Can I run #8 wire 120v on 20 amp to building and then split to #10 in junction box.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Or I HAVE TO run 240v and have a sub panel and then go 120 20 amp. I prefer first way unless I have to a second option.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Thank you.[/color]
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[i]My plan[/i]
I have a yard light that I installed about 11 years ago. Recently, the photo switch that attaches directly to the light pole started acting up, and the yard lamp will not light up now. I have checked the bulb and it is fine, and the fixture is definitely receiving power. I loosened the two screws holding the photo cell into the lamp pole, then disconnected the snap-together easy-connect switch (the connector inside the pole, as well as the connector on the photo cell, each has three wires: black, white, and red). Next, I spray-cleaned the connector terminals on both the pole side and photo cell side, let them dry, and plugged the photo cell back in. When I covered the photo cell, the light came on for a few seconds...then died again. I am convinced that the photo cell is defective. I tried finding another online, but was unsuccessful. In fact, the company that made the switch is in China. Is there any way to bypass the photo cell so that my light switch inside the house will operate the lamp directly? I don't want to replace the whole pole if possible. I don't mind turning the lamp on manually since I rarely use it anyway. See photos below. Thanks!
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02-18-22, 11:01 AM
