I'm trying to upgrade the switches in my switch box. Currently there is a switch to fan in left position, old dimmer to fan light in center, and switch to ceiling light (on 3 way with another switch in the room). I purchased 2 Eaton Smart Dimmers and an Eaton Smart Switch. Was hoping one dimmer would work with fan and other to fan light. The other smart switch was for the other ceiling light (really don't use the other switch in room (3 way). The wiring doesn't make much sense when I look at the current box. Any help in how to carry current wiring to new switches would be awesome! Also, if that smart dimmer won't work to adjust fan speeds, I will just switch it with the smart switch to the ceiling light.

New dimmers and switch (each have 4 screws + ground screw)

Current box set up

Back of current switches and dimmer

Box has 5 romex coming in (A, B, C, D, E)

 

Welcome to the forums.

Can't see all the wiring when the splices aren't pulled out of the box.
Can't see C, D, E black wires.
Need the wiring diagram for the switch.
It's not wired as a contemporary 3w switch.
I think the standard 3w switch at the other end will require a jumper.

 

Hi, it appears that the new switches would connect the same way as existing ones, the only difference will be you will need to supply each with a neutral from the bundle of neutrals in the back of the box, the 3 way would just require a neutral, not sure of controlling the fan speed though.
Geo🇺🇸

 

To clarify.... the three way switch does not appear to share the same hot as the left two switches.
I can't see where the common connects.

The 3w smart switch has labeling for only one traveler..... not two.
Typically only two of the three wires to the remote 3w switch are used but a jumper is added to the switch.

 

Thanks Pete. Here are the wiring diagrams for the new smart dimmers and smart switch as well as photos of the other standard 3 way switch in our living room.

I'm trying to avoid unpacking every bundle in the 3 gang box if possible because it is very packed and 12 ga doesn't like to bend. As far as the black wires go: "C" black is to bottom of old 3 way switch. "D" & "E" black is going to the nut with what appears to be the hot black to the bottom of left fan switch, loops on to bottom of current dimmer. "A" black is to top of left fan switch and "B" black is to the other bottom screw of right 3 way switch. The other thing throwing me off is that the black wires from bottom of fan switch & dimmer as well as "D" & "E" black are nutted together with the white from "B".

I'm assuming that "D" and "E" are the entry and exit from the middle of a run.

 

Here are those pics....sorry.



Other standard 3 way switch in room

 

Also, this is just a quick drawing of the current box that I made to try and visually unpack everything (I'm a visual person, but embarrassed at the terrible drawing that was made against the wall)

 

Cable B goes to the other three way switch. You will need to connect that white wire (B- white) to neutral. You will need to cap off B- black wire. B- red will be the traveler. At the far end switch.... remove and cap the black wire. That will leave white on common terminal and red on a traveler terminal.

Since you will have four additional neutrals..... it would make sense to make them a splice and a jumper to the white neutral splice in the box. All three switches share the same hot.

 

Thanks so much Pete. I'm still trying to understand why they had the "B" white spliced with the hot black from the circuit line D & E??? Also, do you know if there is any reason I can't use the smart dimmer for the fan speed control?

Also is it possible to do a looping wire through each switch's hot and neutral screws similar to the way they previously did the hot black to the fan switch and dimmer? Or is that a big NoNo?


Jeff

 

With a three way circuit.... one switch has the hot/line on the common terminal and the load/light is on the other switch common. Power was sent to the remote three switch on white. It returned to the close three way switch on red and black travelers. The light was connected to the common of the shown switch.

If the dimmer lists fans in what it controls then it should be fine.

 

Did you happen to see my added on question and photo at the bottom? You may have already read the original question before I edited it.

ThanksJeff

 

Those screw terminals are approved for two wires.
So instead of looping the wires.... use short pieces of wire between them.

 

Thank you so much Pete. I am so glad I found you and this website. I used to have an awesome electrical wiring book that I could refer to on certain projects but can't find it anywhere. If you don't mind, I'd like to take a pic or drawing of the changes I'm going to make and get your final thoughts.

Thanks again,
Jeff