I'm looking to replace exhaust fans in my 3 bathrooms. These are all approx 15 years old and very noisy. I've done some electrical work for swtiches/etc. So far I've measured the current cut-out opening, which is approx 8"x9".
I was hoping to just pull out the old and replace with a new one if possible - doing minimal cutout work as well.
I have never replaced on but based on other posts a lot has to do with how the installation of the original fan was done. If the mounting is from the inside of the box it can be relatively easy but if it's the style that has rods spanning between the joist by rods on the outside it's going to be tough.
You can remove the grill and look inside your current fan. Most of the internal parts unplug and can be removed relatively easily. That should leave you with the metal box/housing in the ceiling. Look at how it is mounted. If you can see the screws or nails attaching it to the framing then there is a chance you can replace it from below. If you don't see the screws or nails holding it to the framing then you may have to work from the attic.
It sounds like you have a standard size fan. There are also replacement motors/grills, so you might be able to keep the same fan housing, but upgrade the motor to a possibly better quality or quieter one.
Thanks for all of the tips - I'll do some ladder + attic crawling this weekend to get more info.. I did a scan at my local HomeDepot - was a bit discouraged since pretty much all of the fans had a larger housing housing than mine. The typical size seemed to be 10x9" and larger
Ok - I found the make/model of my existing fan - NuTone 684NT-A . From what I read and viewed in videos online, it seems as if I should be able to replace the motor as mentioned. While poking around from below, I couldn't figure out how to release the fan assembly - no obvious screws to undo. I could see the tabbed hinge on one side but couldn't figure it out. Searching online it looks like the replacement fans are of the same noisy vintage. I'm reaching out to the Nutone folks to see if I can get a recommendation.
I also did some attic surfing yesterday - this is a very challenging area of my attic to deal with - the roof tapers down to almost nothing, and since it's a bathroom there are alota copper water pipes in the area.
So I'm kinda leaning away from DIY-ing this one.. It seems like the newer and quieter fans require me to buy a whole new larger housing and unit - So I may just end up paying a professional to do things
On the bottom of your picture is a tab.
On the opposite side (top of your picture which I cannot see) should be a screw which holds the fan assembly in.
Undo that screw and unplug the fan and the fan assembly should pull/pivot down.
Could be they just need a good cleaning.
Also just Google your fan number to see if replacements are available.
Note when cleaning be careful as there are usually sharp metal edges.
Searching online it looks like the replacement fans are of the same noisy vintage.
You don't want a bath exhaust fan to be TOO quiet!
this is a very challenging area of my attic to deal with - the roof tapers down to almost nothing, and since it's a bathroom there are alota copper water pipes in the area.
Sounds like the perfect situation for a motor/fan replacement in existing can.
Lots of experience with this!! What I think is important
1. First not sure if you are able to do the install from the attic or not but if you do not have access to your attic make sure you buy a fan that does not require you to access the attic to install it. They sale fans now that will say on the box “No Attic Access Necessary” or something simular. Also I would recommend a fan that has a CFM rating of at least 100. Just a heads up the fans go all the way up to 150 some of them.
2. If you get a fan that has a high CFM rating make sure you can attach a 4”-6” exhaust pipe. The size of the exit hose will also have a lot to do with how loud the fan is.
3. if you are replacing your fan you should at least make sure you put it in the most effective location. The builders who constructed my house in the 1990’s just installed the fans where ever so they never worked very good any way. So if you are able to place the fan in a location that will provide a better removal system I would do it patching the old fans location is not so difficult that it is not worth the your new fan not being as efficient as possible. I replaced the fan in our common bathroom and it works so well I have not had any issues with odor since it went in could not be happier.
4. Also if the fan does not come with it own switch (there are a few models that come with some really nice control pads) I would recommend that you put a timer switch in to control the fan. That way you or who ever uses it can turn the fan on when it is necessary but it will not run all day because nobody went back to shut it off after it did it’s job. Again I have this in two of my bathrooms and it works great and saves power.
5. Depending on which bathroom you are replacing the fan in I would consider one with additional functions you can enjoy. They have ones that you can link your phone to so you can play music while you shower and get ready, or if the bathroom has poor lighting in part of the room get a fan with a light, or even if that is not the case at some point you will have to go to the bathroom at night look in to a model with different color lights that can be used for a night light that is not over powering but allows you to not trip or walk in to a wall when you are asleep trying to use the bathroom in the middle of the night.
6 . if noise is a big deal for you I would definitely get one of the Panasonic whisper models they will have the Sones rating listed right on the box so you can see which model has the best noise level for the price. But remember if you use a small exhaust hose that will increase the noise level as well.
I have different fans and lights in my bathrooms depending on who the bathroom is for trust me you can turn that simple fan in to a feature that you actually appreciate and enjoy. Best of all if you sale your home it is now an item that the realtor will mention as additional reason to purchase your home. However you know what is best for you and I know some people are very simple and don’t care about the details like this and there is nothing wrong with that. Either way I hope this has maybe made you think about what is going to give you the best out come in the end and weather the a little additional work now is worth the add value and effectiveness of the fan. Good luck
I have a couple recessed cans (marked Type IC) that I'm replacing bulbs in, but I've run across two questions.
1) The recessed fixture says max 40W A19 bulb. That 40W clearly refers to incandescent, so a 60W-equivalent, 8.5W actual draw LED is good to go, right?
2) I have LED bulbs that state "suitable for enclosed fixtures" on the front of the box. But in the fine print on the back of the box, it says "use in enclosed fixtures may shorten bulb life." I've always heard that "suitable for enclosed fixtures" meant it could be used in enclosed fixtures without any problems, but shortened life sounds like a problem. Am I misunderstanding? Do I need to look for a different bulb?
Thanks!
All, I purchased a bathroom wall fixture and upon inspecting it I noticed one of the tabs isn't seated correctly on the socket (hope that's described accurately). The attached photos show what I think is an incorrectly seated tab on one side of the socket and a tab correctly seated on the opposite side of the same socket. Should this warrant returning the fixture? or can it be pushed down in the correct position say with a screwdriver?
Thanks for your help.
[img]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/tab1_b5c59cc563311ecd7f1b34891558d564b9f505f4.jpg[/img]
[i]Lifted up and not seated.[/i]
[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/tab2_aea8604ca705a275b8b2c72015d00849e0696872.jpg[/img]
[i]Level and seated correctly.[/i]