Installing new light: It's all fun and games until...
I have a picture light that I want to install on a particular wall. This is what is already there, in the exact spot at which I want to place the picture light:
It is a perfectly functional, three-prong outlet, nicely recessed to avoid plugs sticking out from the wall (and very dusty). I am assuming a clock previously hung there. So far, so good!
I found a picture light with a decorative base that covers the wires, etc.
(just like a wall light or sconce, I suppose) [as opposed to the usual installation that uses the picture, itself, to hide the wires]. It was noted as being direct (hard) wired. I researched conversion of direct wiring to a plug. It all looked so very easy: (1) Buy picture light, (2) buy plug to convert hard wiring to plug-in, (3) convert in 2 minutes, and (4) plug in.
I opened the picture light base and the neutral and hot wires were there, and attached to the on/off switch:
But, what about the ground wire?
Attached to the bottom of the base was this:
There is a green covered wire c, 6" long, with wire exposed on one end a brass-colored loop attached to the other end, and a green screw, both taped to the inside of the bottom.
I have done hours of looking on the 'net and You-Tube videos and I cannot figure out what the heck to do with the ground wire. I am assuming the exposed wire end goes into the plug just as the neutral and hot wires go into plug, to convert to a plug-in. But, where do I put the brass-loop on the other end? if I could not even determine what the brass-loop end is called. I assume that it loops around something on the picture light, but what?
I have a Leviton (or equivalent) hospital grade angled plug:
It probably is simpler than it seems, but hours of research and I'm not a bit wiser. Where do I put the loop end of the ground wire?
In your case you don't want to put a plug on the light.
Turn the power off to the receptacle. Remove the two screws.
You should see a box similar to the picture below.
That clock receptacle may have wire leads or screw terminals. (also shown in picture)
The metal plate from the new light will install over the box using the old receptacle screws.
Now you'll connect white to white, black to black and bare to bare for ground.
If the wiring looks questionable or you don't understand it...... post a picture of it before disconnecting it.
There is a screw hole in the metal back plate of the new light. The 6" green wire attaches there using the supplied green self tapping type screw.
I thought that that instruction was only applicable to the instructions for hard wire instructions. Thank you for answering and then reinforcing.
I am not arguing, either: would you be kind enough to explain why it is not acceptable.
Please understand I am NOT suggesting you are wrong. I am simply trying to reconcile two apparently completely contradictory pieces of apparently reliable information. I read several pieces on the internet (some even from arguably qualified writers) that seemed to suggest that this is not an issue. This is an example: https://nextmodernhome.com/how-do-i-...-to-a-plug-in/.
As an added note: I hired the electrician a month ago, and called again two weeks ago. He is fabulous, but was trying to fit me in between the larger jobs. Perfectly reasonable, but I got fidgety and I am off and running.
This from that article you linked to..... I would like to make it clear that you are fully responsible for any crazy mishaps you may have while working on this project. In case of concerns or questions, you should consult a licensed electrician.
You have to use the back plate as the fixture attaches to that. That means you'll have to put screws thru the back plate into the wall. You cannot just stick the wires thru the hole in the plate. You'll need a grommet for the knockout hole. See picture below. If you mount the plate to the wall.... how will you get the wires out ?
Available at the home improvement stores. You'll need one for a 1/2" knockout.
That hole is larger than 1/2"
Hi, which base are you trying to mount , have you removed the clock outlet from the box? you will see exactly what PJ posted, not sure why you will need a cord cap, if the bottom pic you posted is the base of the fixture there are enough slots in it to line up with the screw holes in that box, I may be missing something.
Geo 🇺🇸
Flood light with motion sensor has a broken bracket, and the fixture is dangling below the soffit by the wires.
I haven’t opened up the area yet, but I have some questions …
A. If I do not replace the light, how should I terminate the wires? Wire nuts and tape? I assume that I should add an electrical box if one is not present. I also assume that this box and cover needs to be weatherproof.
B. If I discover that the cabling is not up to current code, do I need to somehow replace the cable, bringing it up to code?
Thanks.
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I have a 3 way lamp which is marked for 50/200/250 and when I put a 50/100/150 bulb in it always loosens up and I have to hand tighten it. is a 50/200/250 bulb width/circumfrence different from a 50/100/150 bulb ?
Should I change the receptecale to a 50/100/150 ?