Installing flood light with no existing wiring


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Old 07-27-22, 12:06 PM
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Installing flood light with no existing wiring

Hi,

I would like to install a security camera flood light to the front of my house but there is currently no existing wiring. I am wondering if it is okay to get a cable to plug into the closest power outlet and route it through the top corner of the garage (so I don't have to drill a hole in the wall), out to eaves where the light will go, and cut/splice the end to the flood light? Any advice for this installation would be much appreciated.

where I want to install security camera flood light

closest power outlet, also where garage door opening is plugged into

under the eave

inside of garage
 

Last edited by PJmax; 07-27-22 at 01:34 PM. Reason: labeled first pic
  #2  
Old 07-27-22, 12:20 PM
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I would try and find a different spot. There is going to be a lot of water coming off that roof right onto the fixture. Perhaps to the right or left on either corner will work for you. Then I would bring a cable along one of the rafter through the board between the rafters to a switch. Then bring power to the switch from any nearby receptacle.
 
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Old 07-27-22, 01:39 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I agree with joed on the excessive water flow.
I added a blue circle and arrows to your picture. That would be a good location.
Very easy to drill a hole thru the sheathing right into the garage.
 
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Old 07-29-22, 10:10 AM
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I think you have a few options depending on what kind of flood lights/camera you want to install.

There are some light/camera combos that are battery powered. I know Ring has a battery option.

Some of the light.camera combos are wired with a power supply inside, and low voltage (USB) cable to power it. By using a low voltage cable, you can drill a small (1/2") hole and run the cable through the wall without worrying much about code compliance. Or even run it through the garage door opening, but realize it may fail after a while with the door closing against it over and over again.

They also have pretty good solar powered floodlights these days. No power required. Then get a battery camera that'll easily last a year or two before changing batteries.

Lastly, you can run a 120v line to a box and wire it like an 'old school' floodlight. With or without a camera.

Lots of options!
 
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Old 08-03-22, 11:45 PM
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Thank you everyone for the reply. Is the worry about rain due to possibly damaging the camera or just water covering the lens? I should mention that I live in Southern California so it only rains a handful of days per year. To install it where the blue marker is, I would need to cut a hole in the shingle siding in order to sit the camera mount flush against the wall right? I am not sure I have the tools for that.
 
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Old 08-16-22, 12:50 AM
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How to Safely Install Outdoor Outlet and Flood Light

Hi Everyone,

I am trying to install an outdoor outlet above my garage door which is covered by an eave. I plan to install a junction box outside and pull the power from an outlet inside the garage using UF cable. I will drill a hole in the exterior wall and feed the UF cable through a hole into the back of the outlet junction box. Then I plan to feed the power with UF cable through one of the outlet holes to the flood light junction box that will be on the fascia of the eave. I will drill a hole through the fascia to feed the UF cable into the back of the flood light junction box and then connect the light. I've attached the junction boxes that I plan on buying.

How do I properly secure the UF cable? (the UF cable coming out of the outlet junction box and the UF cable going into the back of the flood light junction box)
I know there are NM clamps, but can I use them on the inside of the junction box instead of the outside so I don't have to make that large of holes in order to fit the connectors? What about plastic grommets?

How to I weatherproof the connections?

Please let me know if there are any safety issues with my planned method of installation. I am also open to suggestions and any other tips for installation.

https://www.amazon.com/Sealproof-1-G...s%2C201&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-Electri...s%2C306&sr=8-8
 
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Old 08-16-22, 05:01 AM
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There is UF Cable connector, which has rubber grommet that tightens to make water tight connection.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-...0661/100170032

It is not necessary to use UF cable for cable running from inside to outside junction box as long as it is not exposed outside of wall or ceiling.
 
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Old 08-16-22, 10:33 AM
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Do those UF cable connectors also provide strain relief? And can I use that on the inside of the junction box when I feed the wire through the wall and into the back of the box so I don't need to drill a 1inch hole to fit the connector?

As for using UF cable, I only planned to use that because I need to connect the flood light to the outdoor junction box so there will be a little bit of cable exposed outdoors (although it will be under the eave). I figured I would just use the UF cable to connect to the indoor outlet as well so I only need to buy 25ft of UF cable instead of having to buy both UF and romex cables.
 
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Old 08-16-22, 07:57 PM
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Do those UF cable connectors also provide strain relief?
Yes, but not as good as clamp style NM connectors. Cable can pull out if it is pulled hard. Make sure the cable is secured to the wall or ceiling. Don't rely on connectors for support.


And can I use that on the inside of the junction box when I feed the wire through the wall and into the back of the box so I don't need to drill a 1inch hole to fit the connector?
No. All connectors, including NM connectors are meant to have clamp side outside of the junction box.
 
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Old 08-16-22, 08:11 PM
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I had recommended moving the light due to rain. You could use a surface box there too.

I'm trying to figure out why you need two weatherproof boxes.
You can drill two holes, run the wire along the joist right into the back of the box.

The only waterproof connector is a gland fitting and yes it requires a fairly large hole.
You can use that or I use a snap in grommet and make sure the back of the box is siliconed.
Both available from the home improvement stores.
 
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Old 08-16-22, 10:40 PM
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I'm trying to figure out why you need two weatherproof boxes.
You can drill two holes, run the wire along the joist right into the back of the box.
Two weather proof boxes because I want to add an outdoor outlet as well as the flood light.
So I would add the junction box for the outlet directly against the exterior wall and feed the power through a hole and into the back of the junction box. Then I would feed the power from this junction box to the flood light junction box that will be on the fascia (so not against the exterior wall).
 
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Old 08-17-22, 09:27 AM
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After some thought, I have another question about where I should position the 1st junction box and outdoor GFCI outlet. Either directly against the exterior wall of the garage or moved behind the junction box of the flood light.



Outlet junction box placed against exterior wall and covering the hole that feeds the UF cable outside

Outlet junction box placed directly behind flood light junction box. This should be less wiring needed, but is there an issue with the outlet being further towards the edge of the roof even though it will still be covered?
 
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Old 08-17-22, 12:32 PM
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I had left you a picture similar to your last two but it's gone.

Either of your two ideas will work. I
f you use back to back boxes you'd have to use the snap grommets.
 
 

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