Multi-Lampholder Socket for Overhead Light Question
#1
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Multi-Lampholder Socket for Overhead Light Question
The ceiling light/fan in my bedroom has a Zing Ear ZE-310D rated at 660w and 250V. The sockets are rated 60w, but I would like to use 100w bulbs. Since I have been told that socket wattage ratings don't matter with LED bulbs, I tried putting in 100w bulbs, They came on for a very short time and then went off again, and repeated that behavior approximately. 1 60w LED works fine (I haven't got a second 60w LED to test with. The 100w bulbs work fine in other lamps.
I can't find a lampholder socket in the same configuration, and since the bowl barely fits over the bulbs, I don't imagine a different configuration will work. Can anyone point me in the right direction, or suggest a workaround? All advice appreciated...
Edit: I meant to say that "I can't find a lampholder socket in the same configuration with a higher rating, and since the bowl barely fits over the bulbs, I don't imagine a different configuration will work. Can anyone point me in the direction of a 100w compatible socket, or suggest a workaround? All advice appreciated...
I can't find a lampholder socket in the same configuration, and since the bowl barely fits over the bulbs, I don't imagine a different configuration will work. Can anyone point me in the right direction, or suggest a workaround? All advice appreciated...
Edit: I meant to say that "I can't find a lampholder socket in the same configuration with a higher rating, and since the bowl barely fits over the bulbs, I don't imagine a different configuration will work. Can anyone point me in the direction of a 100w compatible socket, or suggest a workaround? All advice appreciated...
Last edited by smilejack1; 08-11-22 at 05:43 PM.
#2
Welcome to the forums.
The rating of the socket has nothing to do with the rating of the fixture.
The fixture mfg sets the maximum usable wattage for that fixture.
Although LED's don't run as hot as incandescent bulbs.... they still run hot.
They have a power supply in the lamp base.
If the globe is as tight as you describe.... there is not enough air room for larger bulbs.
The rating of the socket has nothing to do with the rating of the fixture.
The fixture mfg sets the maximum usable wattage for that fixture.
Although LED's don't run as hot as incandescent bulbs.... they still run hot.
They have a power supply in the lamp base.
If the globe is as tight as you describe.... there is not enough air room for larger bulbs.
#3
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The model number and ratings you included in post 1 are for the lamp holder only so it doesn't include the fan. What voltage are you operating the fixture (bulbs and fan motor) at?
#4
I am not sure how overheating controls work in light fixtures, but I have a question. If you put in the 100 watt equivalent, probably 15 watt actual, LED lamps (bulbs) but you did not replace the bowl, do the LEDs still flick on and off repeatedly suggesting a heat sensor tripping and cooling down and resetting?
Individual screw in sockets for household incandescent lamps come in different wattage ratings. The maximum I have seen is 660 watts each.
Individual screw in sockets for household incandescent lamps come in different wattage ratings. The maximum I have seen is 660 watts each.
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@AllanJ: Yes, 100w LED bulbs flick on and off repeatedly without the bowl attached.
@beelzebob: Attached is a jpg showing the only additional info I can find on or in the fan. I rent, and I doubt my landlady has any additional info. In case it helps, I can add that the unit is on a 15a circuit. That's all I have.
@PJmax: I believe my response to AllanJ addresses your input re: the bowl.
@beelzebob: Attached is a jpg showing the only additional info I can find on or in the fan. I rent, and I doubt my landlady has any additional info. In case it helps, I can add that the unit is on a 15a circuit. That's all I have.
@PJmax: I believe my response to AllanJ addresses your input re: the bowl.
#6
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The part in the photo is a motor run capacitor so I am assuming it is connected to the fan motor of the fan/light fixture. It is designed to operate at a supply voltage of 280 vac or less. Does the 15 A breaker for the fixture have 1 or 2 toggles?
#8
Ok.... missed the ceiling fan part.
More than likely there is a current limiter module within the fan.
This was instituted first in California due to their strict energy standards and has spread nationwide.
This is a residential ceiling fan. It runs on 120v and will be on a single breaker circuit.
The capacitor voltage does not indicate the fixture voltage... just the max.
More than likely there is a current limiter module within the fan.
This was instituted first in California due to their strict energy standards and has spread nationwide.
This is a residential ceiling fan. It runs on 120v and will be on a single breaker circuit.
The capacitor voltage does not indicate the fixture voltage... just the max.
#10
I would get the panel checked out ASAP as from what I can see from the blurry picture it looks to be a Zinsco Panel
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@beelzebob: Both, and I would add that they aren't exactly flickering. The bulbs come on and immediately go off, and and do the same approximately every two seconds. Whether this matters, I don't know, but I thought it might possibly be helpful.
@CircuitBreaker: Thanks for the tip. My landlady is on it!
@CircuitBreaker: Thanks for the tip. My landlady is on it!
#13
@ smilejack1
Yes this is a Zinsco panel and should be replaced ASAP!
I posted a link to what they look like and why they should be replaced
Yes this is a Zinsco panel and should be replaced ASAP!
I posted a link to what they look like and why they should be replaced