I am installing a ring floodlight camera. I removed the old floodlight, one black wire, one white wire, no ground wire. The junction box on the eave is metal, tested with mulitmeter to see if box was grounded, it's not. How do I ground the new floodlight?
I appreciate any help.
The 1962 Code mandated equipment grounding for all branch circuits. Different areas adopt codes at different times and may be quite a few years "behind" the latest code. If electrical code adoption in your area was 4 code cycles (12 years) behind, that circuit could have been run (or the house built) around 1974 or earlier.
That box should be "grandfathered" since it likely met codes at the time it was installed. Since you are just replacing an existing light, there is no need to bring things up to current code in your area.
Thank you for the info. Two questions: what do I do with ground wire on the new floodlight/camera? Also, will the floodlight/camera shock me if it's not grounded?
Forgive my simple minded questions, I don't know much about electricity.
Thanks.
Leave the ground wire loose inside the box.
Will you get shocked.... not likely.
You'd have to be standing on the ground and touching the fixture to even get a shock
and with the fixture installed under an eave that would be pretty much impossible.
Personally, I'd take a minute and loosen the clamp screw and see if you can pull any slack of the cable into the box. Some of those old cloth-covered cables have grounds, but the installers at the time just cut them at the box if they weren't 'needed'. Would be worth checking to see if there's a ground there.
But I agree with others, if there's no ground there, it isn't a real high priority to rewire a flood light with a ground.
Hi All, I am trying to replace an existing single pole light switch with a smart switch.
The existing switch has 3 black wires going into it (2 back stubbed) and one to the screw on the side. I assume one top back stub (A) is live. The adjacenct screwed black wire (B) carries live to other switches in the room. And the bottom backstab is the lout wire (takes power when switch is turned on).
and a bunch of white wires are bundled together in the box.
The new smart switch (Meross MSS510) has 4 wires. Live lout neutral and ground.
Questions :
a) How do I make the connections?
b) Can I combine the 2 black wires (A and B) and the live from the smart switch with a single cap?
c) As there is no ground wire, can I leave the ground in new switch empty?
Thanks in advance.
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/c6c218c2_a1a0_4b4f_98fe_29d60a5f7ce4_18a8242cac846952b2b4037f864f6f159774c47b.jpeg[/img]
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/0d814cc3_4157_42d0_b3f8_cfa9ebfb6e02_4c0735c7ff798b4118186630757889f3c3e90c6b.jpeg[/img]
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/542fac97_ffa2_46b0_8472_c688566e7f3f_2503a940a4ef2a60f08e89d7e2f7992184bc5462.jpeg[/img]
Hello, I am trying to replace our bathroom wall mounted heater fan timer (old style rotary timer/switch) with a new button style one however there is only Red & Black electrical wires in the wall box and the new timer/switch has red, black, white, ground, orange. How do I connect this to make it work? I tried red to red and black to black and it doesnt work, not even the indicator LEDs.
Thanks