I removed a Broan ceiling heat lamp/fan and am preparing to install a simple light fixture. The Broan was controlled by one switch ganged with other switches on the wall. There are four wires, red black white and ground, in the ceiling box. The new light has a black white and ground wire. I'm unsure how to wire up the new light and internet searches refer to a ceiling fan with blades instead of the heat lamp fixture. Both the red and black wires are hot when the wall switch is flipped on. The second photo is after removing the giant old heater and installing a ceiling box and drywall. Any help would be appreciated. Sincerely, RRD.
The 3-wire (plus ground) cable was to control light and heat separately with separate switches. Black & White for the light, Red & White for the heat. Note that I don't mention the ground, but everywhere it appears, it must be connected to the box (if metal) and to any devices (if ground connections are present). The Source is the hot from the electrical panel, the Neutral (always white or gray) is from the electrical panel and the Load is the device being powered.
The NEC devotes an entire article to switches. And in that article, it prohibits switching the neutral (grounded conductor) or the grounding conductor. Think of the neutral as running unbroken from the load (your light) to the neutral bar in the electrical pane. Put simply, a switch must be on the hot side between the source and the load; never on the neutral side.
All wiring should be done with power to the circuit turned off at the electrical panel. Confirm this at the switch and light boxes with a meter.
At the switch box:
The simplest way to wire this is to connect the hot from the electrical panel to one switch terminal and the black to the fixture box to the other switch terminal. The neutrals should still be connected. Disconnect the red and cap it with a wire nut or several layers of electrical tape.
At the fixture box:
Connect the black from the switch box to the black of the fixture and the white from the switch box to the white of the fixture. Cap the red conductor.
The avoids having to re-identify the neutral in the Switch Leg (cable from the fixture box to the switch box) and meets code (the switch is in the hot side of the circuit.
There was a three wire cable run so that fan and heat could be controlled separately.
Since there wasn't room at the switchbox for two switches for the heat lamp.... both red and black wires were switched on the switch. So at the ceiling box use ground, white (neutral) and either red or black. Cap off the wire not used.
Well thank you both ThisOldMan and PJmax for your timely replies. I sincerely appreciate your advice on this matter and I can now wrap up the remodel now and move on.
What I didn't mention in the original post was that I stepped through the ceiling while working on another project in the attic (hard to see those rafters in the blown in insulation) and then decided to get rid of the antique heat lamp fixture if was going to repair the drywall. Never thought I was going to be 'That guy'. Thanks again.
I put my foot through the ceiling over a receptionist's desk. Told them to have it repaired and send me the invoice. They did and I paid it.
Was back there several months later and was horrified at what I had paid for! Turned out that someone else had stepped through the repaired spot and did their own half-xxxed repair.
[code]Hello. Attempts to design a traffic light control system according to certain assumptions. The system should turn on after pressing S1 S2 and S3 sequentially. Then, after starting, the green light should be on for 10 seconds, then the orange light should be on for 2 seconds and the red light for 10 seconds. after the counting of the time of the red lamp is completed, the red lamp and the orange lamp should light up simultaneously for 2 seconds, after that time the green lamp should turn on again for 10 seconds . I got the start but don't know what to do next[/code]
[code]Sorry for any language mistakes I come from the Czech[/code]
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Short version: I need to light up this hallway floor dusk to dawn with a nightlight system that is not battery operated nor operation on motion detection. How do I do it? Stop reading here if you have a solution.
Long version with every detail about the space follows:
After painting the hallway it’s time for some floor lighting. Even though I know my way in the dark there are times I just want a dim floor light and don’t want to turn on all the ceiling lights merely to light the floor up. Also trying to avoid cat puke in the dark. Which is a REAL motivation. So id be happy with full time dusk to dawn floor lighting in this normally pretty dark hallway.
As you can see from the long hallway pic, there’s a huge mirror and hot water baseboard on the left. The right where you see an outlet will be totally covered by cabinets. If you make the left turn into that other hallway there’s a closet immediately on the left side. That part of the hall is maybe 4 ft long then you go left down a hall about 3 feet to a bedroom or straight ahead is a bathroom and to the right is a 2nd bedroom.
Issues are that there are no outlets nor light switches on the wall with the big mirror. Cant run any new lines for anything either. Also researched battery lights and while I know some of the motion ones say batteries last a few months, I don’t want to recharge batteries. Where I’m standing in the long hall pic is a doorway and there’s an outlet on the other side of the doorway. So my plan is just plug in a long extension cord to either go up and around the doorway or just bite the bullet and buy a cord protector and run it across that threshold since it’s just a utility room there anyway.
I haven’t been able to find a cord I want but I was thinking maybe 2 or 3 lights running on top of the baseboard or even some kind of lighting running under it if it wouldn’t be bothered by the 180 degree baseboard. Theres about 1 inch of space between floor and the cast iron. I think LED strip lighting may be not the effect I want but if theres some other kind of light I would put it there. Otherwise id run the cord on top of the baseboard and use dusk to dawn LED lights. Unsure how to make all that ‘look pretty’. But the thing is I cannot find a cord that has outlets every few feet for indoor use. For Christmas stuff it’s ez to find thick outdoor cords but I just need the thinnest most unobtrusive cord so this doesn’t look too bad like some rig job.
Also when you make that left into the other hall id like lighting down that short hallway. So thinking the cord would extend around that corner maybe and across the closet door threshold. Alternatively for that short hallway you can see in my 2nd pic there’s an outlet a few feet from the hall as well as a hot water baseboard. I do not want any lighting on that wall itself because it’s direct line of sight to where I sit and watch tv in the living room. So that wall itself must not have direct light but around the corner I would like at least one light on that wood baseboard.
Only other thought is once the cabinets are installed on that side of the wall opposite the baseboard, maybe I could rig an extension cord on either side of the cabinets, facing the hall. Basically mounting the lights to the side front toward the bottom of the cabinets. Or if theres some kind of freestanding nightlights I could put on the extension cord. Hate to connect anything to my brand new cabinets!
taking all suggestions..except those that say get battery powered.
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11-16-22, 11:59 AM
Told them to have it repaired and send me the invoice. They did and I paid it.
Turned out that someone else had stepped through the repaired spot and did their own half-xxxed repair.
Told them to have it repaired and send me the invoice. They did and I paid it.
Turned out that someone else had stepped through the repaired spot and did their own half-xxxed repair.
