Install/Junction Box Options for Backyard Lights


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Old 12-09-22, 01:10 PM
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Install/Junction Box Options for Backyard Lights

I currently have three 1000w halogen "court" lights in my backyard. They were better than the regular flood lights but time has come to upgrade.

I got LED stadium lights which are brighter and use less electricity (240w vs. 1000w).

The existing lights are mounted ON round floodlight boxes so I am trying to determine the best way to install. Looking for thoughts on these options:

1) Keep existing round boxes, plug unused hole, mount LEDs close and run power into existing round box [easiest]

2) Replace round box with smaller square box (PVC or metal?) run power from LEDs into boxes [medium amount of work but think it will look better than existing round boxes]

3) Remove junction boxes from outside of house and install junction boxes in attic. Mount light over existing hole and run power from LED into attic junction box [hardest because space is tight in attic but think would look the cleanest]


This is more just to make them look as good as they can because they are huge.

Thoughts?

Here are some pics:

Existing lights:



New LED Lights:




This is what I would do with option #3 - run the power cable from the LED into the attic junction box:


 
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Old 12-09-22, 02:19 PM
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I think I would mount the new fixture so it hides the box and then use a cable fitting similar to the one coming out of the LED into the hole where the existing conduit comes out.
 
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Old 12-09-22, 03:46 PM
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They need to connect to a splice box outside.
I don't see how a square box is any neater over over a round box.
The box should barely be visible if it's behind the fixture.
 
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Old 12-09-22, 10:06 PM
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Assuming (I know, a dangerous word) those lights are line powered (120 VAC), the connections must be contained in a box. Find metal blank WP covers for your existing boxes, mount the lights to the cover and use a suitable WP connector get the wire into the box.
 
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Old 12-10-22, 05:29 AM
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Option #1 is the best option.
Option #2 is OK but I don't think there will be any benefit as any other box would not be that much smaller.
Option #3 is not an option as the light fixture cable is not rated to be installed inside a wall or an attic.
 
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Old 12-13-22, 05:57 AM
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Thanks everyone for the responses! Looks like Option 1 is the way to go - which is good as it is the easiest.

Follow up question: For the power wire for the lights into the box, is there a special water proof connector or cable gland I should use?

Since these will be outside I figure it would need a water tight connection.

As far as the mounting, the lights are heavy and could not be mounted to the box. They need to be bolted into the house.
 
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Old 12-13-22, 10:45 AM
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They make WP cable entries, but the ones I used came with the equipment; no idea who made them. It has to be sized for the cable.
 
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Old 12-21-22, 04:50 PM
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@ThisOldMan - Thank you. I found the connectors you were referencing at HD. They screw into the standard threads on the junction box (pic below for reference).

My experience for others who may have a similar question:

1. Since the old lights mounted on the cover, the plugs on the bottom were siliconed in, and the cover screws were rusted I ended up just replacing all the junction boxes.

2. I siliconed the plugs (as the stamping on the box advised) and for the water-tight connector on the bottom I just screwed it in. My thought was 1) gravity will prevent water going up into the box, 2) if water gets in the box it could potentially use it as a way out.

3. For the power wires going into the boxes, I siliconed the wire clamp in the rear of the box to prevent water from coming in.

4. I put some anti-seize on the cover screw threads which I hope will make future servicing possible if required (I had to cut off 2 of the screws on the old boxes as the heads got messed up because they were rusted in place).

5. I created a "drip-loop" on the wires from the lights to the boxes and zip-tied them

6. Each light had 2 bolts to hold them to the mount with 3 washers (regular, star, lock) so I put them together and held them in place with electrical tape - way better than fumbling with it on the ladder!

The hardest part was working in 30 degree weather and moving my 28 foot super-heavy duty ladder into place.

All in all I'm happy with the way it turned out and got good at it once I finished the last one lol. I don't run these for long at a given time so hopefully they last a while - time will tell.

Thanks everyone for your help!

Some pics for reference...

Water-Tight Connectors



Light 2 of 3



Let there be light!
 
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Old 12-21-22, 05:58 PM
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Nice job!

It is very common for the screws to get stuck in due to corrsion. The screws are steel and the boxes are aluminum which also doesn't help.
 
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Old 12-21-22, 09:08 PM
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Thanks! Iím wondering if it would be worth getting stainless steel screws?
 
 

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