My kitchen ceiling has a fluorescent tube (4 tubes) for lighting. Recently, turn on the tubes, has some difficulty. Sometimes, turn on the switch, it should wait 20-30 minutes to let tube light on；sometimes, I have to rotate one tube to light on. If the fluorescent tube is lighting on already, then turn OFF several hours, it is fine when switch ON again, but OFF time can not over ~6 hours. What is the problem? Is the starter needs be replaced? My room temperature is 65 -70F. Thanks
It may be time for new ballasts and fresh lamps, and possibly new lamp holders too. Old fluorescent ballasts and lamps, as well as lamp holders, can become real finicky.
If it is a 4' fluorescent fixture and it needs a new ballast it might be a better option to just convert the fixture to LED direct drive lamps and bypass the ballast. Rarely do lamp holders need to be replaced unless they are damaged.
Is this a T12 (1 1/2" diameter lamps) or a T8 (1" diameter lamps) fixture?
Years ago I stopped repairing fluorescent lights. You can buy LED conversion bulbs that will work with your existing ballast. Unfortunately when your ballast completely dies you'll have to do another repair. A better solution is to remove the ballast altogether and use line powered LED bulbs. There are already several threads here how to make the conversion (remove the ballast) or we can help you out if you have questions but many bulbs come with the instructions.
I would also remove the ballast and change to LED's. It might also be a good idea to spend a little more and get dimmable bulbs so you can regulate the ;light output.
are you talking normal LED lamp as shown in the picture or some special? Could you please show the threads which make the conversion (remove ballast)?
What stuff I should have/buy before do the conversion. I need your helps. Simple is better.
Thanks
{1} please see attached pictures of fixture.
(2) my current lamps are 4 tubes of T12 48". May I use this fixture to install two tubes of LED T8 48" tube (or I have to install 4)? Using LED T8 still need ballast?
(3) Somebody suggests removing ballast to install LED lamp, how does it works?
(4) May I add conversion adapter to install normal LED bulb (as last picture) using current fixture? The question is each tube has two sockets, if set one normal lamp for each tube, how to process? Under such case, do I need remove ballast or just don't care the existence of ballast.
I get a box of LED T8 48" bulbs, because T12 is not produced anymore. It is told that T8 could replace T12 with T12 fixture, is it true?
As described in the box, it is compatible to most ballasts. So, it looks like changing to LED, still need new ballast, the old T12 ballast still could work for T8 (technically, it should be, because T12 has more power)? May I bypass ballast?
Those lamps are not direct drive and rely on a ballast for function. It is doubtful that they are compatible with the existing T12 ballasts. Also, your issue sounds like the ballasts are failing anyway so this is a good time to remove them and convert the light to LED direct drive lamps. I should also mention that the lamps you bought are "daylight" which they list at 6500K. That will be a VERY blue light that is often not a very pleasing light in a home for general illumination.
Since I see you are shopping at Lowes. Here are some lamps that would work as bypass lamps: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE/5013820993 These lamps will require rewiring the light and removing the ballast but it is not difficult to do if you are mechanically inclined. These are color selectable from 4000K, 5000K, and 6500K. In a home, I would recommend not going over 5000K for general lighting.
As another option, these ones at the big orange store near you are 25% cheaper and go down to 3000K https://www.homedepot.com/p/Feit-Ele...037737#overlay Again, the ballasts must be removed and the sockets directly wired.
The lamps will have pins on both ends. For some lamps, you only connect the wires to one end (Must be non-shunted sockets) other lamps you connect the hot to one end and the neutral to the other. There are even some lamps that can do both. (Note: since your fixture uses T12 lamps the sockets will be non-shunted)
The two lamps I linked I am not sure how they wire, you will have to look at the wiring diagram to see what is required.
The duel ends typically means that you connect one end to the hot and the other to the neutral. This method can be wired with any fixture that takes straight lamps. (Not round)
this comes from Lows 5013820993 T8B installation figures. In step 3-7 picture, does left two pictures show non-shunted sockets circuit, 3rd one is with ballast and 4th one is direct connection for non-shunted socket? Or no one is non-shunted circuit?
What is the function for 1A fuse in the circuit for, and is it enough for T8 supply?
Thanks
Hi All (I have two related questions regarding replacing a switch),
[b][u]Question 1[/u][/b] - I am trying to replace an old mechanical switch with a motion sensing one in the garage. The garage has two switches to control one set of ceiling lights (a switch on the wall with the garage door, and a switch on the wall with the pass-thru door to the house). I assume this is a 3-way switch (right?). I went to Home Depot and the gentleman there picked out some "Beyond Bright" bulbs for me, along with a Lutron MS-OPS2H-WH switch ([url]https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Maestro-Motion-Sensor-Switch-2-Amp-Single-Pole-White-MS-OPS2H-WH-MS-OPS2H-WH/203202128[/url]). I never actually looked at the packaging the gentleman handed me, I just assumed it was the correct switch (I had told him that I needed a 3-way capable switch).
So, it turns out that the switch I ended up purchasing is NOT a 3-way switch. However, I'm wondering if I can still use it. Like I said, I have two wall switches that control the lights, and I only want to replace one of them. I would be fine with never touching the other switch again (meaning, I don't really need to control the lights from two places as long as motion will turn the lights on). If I simply leave the old switch in the "on" position forever, and I allow the new switch to control the lights through motion, can I use the MS-OPS2H-WH that I just bought? (And, if so, how do I wire it?)
[b][u]Question 2[/u][/b] - I removed the old switch I'm replacing from the wall, and the wires inside the wall are apparently really old. There are lots of wires inside the box from what I can tell, but the three wires that were attached to the old switch appear to be solid (not stranded) copper (I'm assuming copper and not aluminum because they are orangish-blackish, not shiny silver). Instead of standard insulation covering, all three wires are covered in a mesh fabric-type covering that seems to be starting to shred a bit near the "stripped" part of the wire - there are no differences in color for the three. There is also a very copper ground wire that was tucked into the box but which was not used. So - I'm assuming the three wires are the equivalent of a black wire, a red wire, and a white wire, but how do I know which was which? I can (maybe) recall which wire was attached where on the old switch, but the old switch is so old that the screws on it all appear to be the same color and there is no writing on the old switch. I do have a simple voltage tester if that helps ([url]https://www.gardnerbender.com/en/p/GET-3100/Twin-Probe-Circuit-Tester[/url]).
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you.
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The transformer in question is KICHLER, MODEL # 12217, rated at 200W. I've owned the transformer for approximately 10 years, working flawlessly. Connected to the transformer are 3 separate runs. Suddenly, one of the three runs stopped illuminating. I checked connections at the transformer & all were secure. I had an identical extra KICHLER, which I planned to use in the front of the house. I transferred the wiring to the new transformer & all the lights illuminated. How is it possible for the older transformer to illuminate two of three runs, but not the third run?
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09-23-23, 06:59 PM
