Starter problem on Mercruiser 3.0L (off a Bayliner Capri)


Old 09-30-04, 10:49 AM
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Starter problem on Mercruiser 3.0L (off a Bayliner Capri)

Hi, anyone else out there had this problem? One of the 2 bolts holding my starter underneath the engine sheared off, and it can't be reached (broke off without leaving anything to grab) says only option is to remove entire engine from boat and drill/tap. Can't there be an easier/less expensive way?????? HELP!
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Old 10-02-04, 09:14 AM
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Hello Dan. Welcome to the Boats, Sailing, Pwc's & Navaigations topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Not likely would it be possible to drill out or use a tap to remove the broken bolts. In order to do such, straight access must be obtained. Such is not possible without engine removal.

Removing the remaining portions of a broken bolt is not such any easy task. It often takes a real pro to do this using an easy out tap. A center hole must forst be drilled into the remain portion of the bolt. Than the tap inserted into the hole. Than the tap has to be turned counter clockwise to remove the remaining portion of the bolt(s).

All of which is best left to a professional mechanic to do, in my opinion. The diy resident boat service & repair professionals will have additional helpful information, suggestions and advice. Check back on your question several times for additional replies.

Kindly use the reply button to add any additional information or questions, etc. to this thread. Using this method also moves the topic back up to the top of the daily list automatically.

Regards, Good Luck & Safe Boating.
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Old 10-04-04, 11:02 AM
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Hi, thanks for your reply. I had a thought, and asked a friend of mine who is an auto mechanic to check it out, and he thinks he can get to it with a right angle drill with no problem. We'll try it in a couple weeks and hopefully have success! If not, hey at least I tried! Dan
Old 10-16-04, 03:59 AM
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Here's a thought... I was in Sears a while back and they have a combination drill and easy-out. It's actually a reverse cut drill (it cuts backward) that becomes sort of a big screw. So using a drill in reverse it first cuts a starter hole deep enough for the screw to grab. When the screw part is set you release the thing from the drill and put on a T handle to finish the removal.

One more thought...

Seriously soak the broken bolt with penetrating lube now... before you are ready to start this process. The longer the lube has to soak in the better. I have seen these bolts, being low in the bilge and close to a lot of moisture, be extremely corroded. A friend had a similar situation with a water pump bracket bolt. He used a flex attachment for his drill (looks like a flexible drain snake) to get the hole drilled, but the bolt was so corroded he actually broke off the easy-out in the bolt. Of course then he had to lift the motor up to finish the job. Not fun and might have been avoided if he had pre soaked the bolt with penetrating lube.

Along those same lines, if the worst happens and you end up needing to pull the motor remember that all you really need to do is jack it up high enough to get clear access. That may not be as big a job as it sounds.

Good luck!
Old 10-18-04, 01:08 PM
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Thanks Terry, awesome tip! I'll let you know how it goes (but that won't be for another month or so).
Old 10-16-06, 09:26 PM
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broken starter bolts

danw , I had the same problem, Recently bought a 95 bayliner capri, mercruiser 3.o L. The previous owner says he replaced the starter recently. after 3 days of use, the short bolt had sheared off. No way to get at the bolt to drill without removing the engine. i first tried a drill, no luck being the boly is hardened steel. almost no way to get a drill to bite without removing the engine. Someone suggested that since the engine was fairly new, remove the starter, spray some lubricating spray and stick a small screwdriver in the hole and try to unscrew it out., it worked! the broken bolt came right out with a jewelers screwdriver, I twirled the screwdriver in the correct direction to unthread the bolt, until I could get at it with my fingers and then screwed it out the rest of the way. ., replaced it with another and then a week later the longer bolt broke. fortunately I got it out as well the same way. replace that one and a few weeks later the short one broke again. I used the original bolts. Found out that there should be a bracket on the backside of the starter that mounts into the engine block. It costs 54$, I dont know how it goes on, but I will order it anyway. There is a hole for a bolt just above the back of starter on the engine block, looks like it should connect the bracket there. This has to be the problem, beause i keep breaking bolts. Also, there is a shim that could go between the starter and the engine block, This shim I am told, may or may not be needed. If there are no bad grinding then the shim is probably not needed. the parts manual say NUmber - as, which means as needed, therefore I dont think this is why I keep shearing bolts. i am convinced i need the bracket now. i think that the mechanic that replaced the starter just didnt reinstall the bracket, thinking it is not needed. Just a heads up, If you dont have the bracket, you may shear another bolt. Other reasons for shearing bolts - installed improperly (loose bolts) or overtorqued. good luck...

Last edited by deep1; 10-16-06 at 09:56 PM.

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