winterizing engines (fog)

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  #1  
Old 10-04-06, 10:34 PM
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winterizing engines (fog)

Hi all,

I have a sterndrive mercury mercuiser 5.0L engine that I have to winterize quickly. The instructions say to

1. Disconnect and plug fuel supply line
2. Start engine
3. Remove flame arrestor assembly
4. While operating engine at fast idle (1300) rpm, fog internal surfaces of induction system and combustion chambers by squirting approximately 227 g (8 oz.) of quicksilver storage seal or sae 20w engine oil into carburetor bores.
5. Squirt the remaining 57g (2 oz) of storage seal (or oil) rapidely into carburetor, just as the engine begins to stall, due to lack of fuel. Allow engine to stop.

Is it really necessary to disconnect the fuel supply line as the instructions suggest. Last year I just squirted a whole bunch in the carburetor bores and it worked fine. The instructions on the can said to squirt in the carburetor bores and then at the end squirt a whole lot to stall the engine. The fogging material I used never stalled the engine as they say that it should when you squirt alot in there but it seemed to work fine. I got a new boat this year that is why I am asking this.

And also i have looked and looked and looked buy I just cannot find the oil filter. Do you know where it should be on the engine. thank you.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-05-06, 05:21 AM
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Manufacturers suggestions are there for a reason...

Even if we're not sure what the reason is. I would suppose that Mercruiser is afraid of not getting a good fog coating of the cylinder walls/carburator as the gasoline continuing to run through those will wash it right off while running. I, like you, have always fogged through the carb after adding fuel stabilizer to keep the gas from "rotting" over the winter. Not saying it's right... just what I've always done. I also remove the spark plugs, spray lubricant into the cylinder bores, and turn the engine over to assure a good coating in the bores.

There is a good "winterizing" thread at the top of this forum that has been referred to year after year..... take a look.

As far as the filter.... I would look under the manifold, on the sides of the engine, near the oil pan assembly. It's possible Mercruiser has set it up "remotely" as oil filters can be difficult to access due to engine stringers.... I'd have to see it to tell ya.
 
  #3  
Old 10-05-06, 07:53 PM
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If I remove the fuel line and plug it is the point of disconnect before the fuel filter where the fuel line connects to the fuel tank and what can I plug it with. Would a correctly sized bolt with a hose clamp work.

For a final question I seem to not be able to locate the fuel cooler drain plug. Mayby it isn't even on there though. thanks
 
  #4  
Old 10-06-06, 07:44 AM
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I would disconnect the fuel line at the carburator inlet - and plug the line with a properly sized bolt/hose clamp as you mentioned.

Maybe I'm out of the times... but I haven't seen a fuel cooler on anything except high performance (ie/racing) engines (we used to use a cannister with the fuel line coiled in it - and added ice prior to our race). If you do have one - and are afraid of water remaining in it.... I would trace the water lines into the cooler (transmission cooler too) and disconnect same at the lowest point you can find. Then I would find the highest water line I could find and disconnect it also - allowing the pressure to equalize and drain the system enough to prevent ice from damaging components.

Last and not least - when I live in really cold climates (I move a lot) - I will put a light bulb or heating blanket in the engine compartment to assist in keeping the compartment temperatures from freezing temps. Maybe overkill - but I've never had freeze damage in the 30 years I've been storing boats.
 
  #5  
Old 10-06-06, 09:58 AM
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Hello: Michael

Fuel Cooler? Not seen one in years either. Visit areas that temps do drop down to freeze temps and still not seen any nor heard of talk of any.

Warming element for cabins? Yes. Helps to keep moisture out. Can be used in engine compartments but not required in most areas. Engine should be run if boat remains in water all year anyway.

For dry dock storage, opinions vary on what needs to be done. Much does depend upon location and local conditions, etc. Advice you've gotten thus far is excellent.

Additional advice here:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=146226

Stern Drive Help & Info With Illustrations:
http://www.sterndrive.com
http://www.sterndrive.info

Marine Engine Flushing Informational Web Site:
http://www.seasafeinstruments.com

DIY'S Boat Pages:
http://doityourself.com/boats/index.shtml

More can be found in the "Related Ads" to the right. Related ads are dynamic. Change with almost every refresh to the topic. Upon first visit to the forum, look right>>>>.

Regards, Good Luck & Safe Boating.
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  #6  
Old 10-06-06, 10:39 AM
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They do say in the instruction manual "remove drain plugs from the following locations, if equipped". You notice they do say "if equipped". Sense I cannot find it I am just going to ignore it.

If I remove the line at the place where it enters the carburetor I thought that there wouldn't be enough gas in the system to start it even but I quess not. That makes it easier for me though sense that line is easier to access.

Thank you for the additional help sharp advice. I will check it out as you say. Thanks
 
  #7  
Old 10-06-06, 11:52 AM
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Hello: Michael

If you're not sure that specific engine has freeze/drain plugs but still want the protection they provide, removed engine water pump.

Chances are a new pump should be installed and a good idea to install a new pump, anyway. Same applies to engine thermostat and water hoses.

Leave T-Stat out. Cover/insert into opening breathable cloth. Install new T-Stat come next season. Spray coat exposed areas. Remove water hoses. Install all new next season.

Above practices helps to prevent potential break downs for minor parts failures. Unless you like the thrill and adventure of brake downs at sea when land is no where in sight....
 
  #8  
Old 10-13-06, 05:54 PM
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Winterizing my boat. I just messed up. They say in the instruction manual to fill the fuel tanks full inorder to prevent condensation in the fuel tanks well I just accidentally filled it with 10 percent ethanol solution of fuel. The boat can run on the stuff but in the winterizing section of the manual it says that if fuel with alcohol in it is used the tanks should be drained as low as possible and fuel stabilizer used in the rest of the fuel leftover.

Is it really necessary to have to drain the fuel tanks like they say to do.

Also even if the answer is yes or no how do you siphon out the fuel tank well. I keep on sticking a hose in it and suck but only alittle comes out and the siphon stops. Doesn't work for some reason.
 
  #9  
Old 10-14-06, 09:10 AM
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If memory serves me well - ethanol blends tend to break down in a short amount of time - and would have the tendancy to really not burn well after a winter of storage....

As far as siphoning.... do you have built in tanks? Is there a long run from the fill point to the tank (ie: hose)... Does that hose have a horizontal run in it? Is the end of your siphon hose (the part outside the boat) lower than the bottom of the gas tank when trying to siphon? Sounds like your siphon hose is not hitting the bottom of your gas tank - possibly for one of the reason above.
 
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