1980 305/Mercruiser Removal
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
1980 305/Mercruiser Removal
Hi. I am a new member looking for a little help. I have taken on a project for a financially distressed person. He could not have his boat winterized last year do to illness and now has some problems. Exhaust manifolds are cracked. The engine runs great and has no water in the oil. He ran the boat about 20 minutes around the lake before he discovered he had a problem. The back of the boat flooded and the engine finally quit. Other than the cracked manifolds I have not visually seen any other damage___yet. I have a couple of questions other than where else to look for damage. How do I pull the V-8? Does anyone have or no where to find used manifolds (77234 and 77235)? Any other advice is greatly appreciated. I am a car guy not a boat guy but I guess a gearhead is a gearhead.
Thanks,
Greg
Thanks,
Greg
#2
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Savannah, Ga.
Posts: 37
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Typically you don't have to pull the engine to change the exhaust manifolds and heads. Normally you don't want to buy used exhaust components either, unless maybe they are low hours and fresh water only. If someone took them off, they came off for a reason, you know what I mean?
I'm assuming that it also has an exhaust y-pipe. If it does, and if it needs to be replaced, it is easier done with the engine unbolted and moved up and forward out of the way. I have a brand new y-pipe that I would give someone a real good deal on if you end up needing one. I may also have risers and maybe even manifolds from a project I gave up on. You can get them here.
http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordnew2...&submit=Search
http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordnew2...&submit=Search
If you have to pull the engine it's actually pretty easy. You move the throttle forward to put the outdrive in forward gear, back the 6 outdrive mounting bolts most of the way out and try to back back the outdrive off a little. If it moves, disconnect the two trim rams and 6 bolts and pull it off (it's heavy). If it doesn't move, use the trim rams to back it off.
Climb back in the boat and disconnect the fuel line, wire harness, control and shift cable, and battery wires from the starter and block. Remove the 2 aft mounting bolts and the 2 motor mounts and lift it forward and up, then out of the way. I think that's about it.
While you have the outdrive out go ahead and change the lower shift cable. Also check the exhaust and drive shaft bellows and chanbe them if the haven't been changed in a while. You can get an outdrive kit that has all teh seals and other things that you need.
I would also put new drain fittings in the engine block. They are cheap and make it an easier task when they need to be opened up.
Here's how I pulled my 305 out.
I'm assuming that it also has an exhaust y-pipe. If it does, and if it needs to be replaced, it is easier done with the engine unbolted and moved up and forward out of the way. I have a brand new y-pipe that I would give someone a real good deal on if you end up needing one. I may also have risers and maybe even manifolds from a project I gave up on. You can get them here.
http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordnew2...&submit=Search
http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordnew2...&submit=Search
If you have to pull the engine it's actually pretty easy. You move the throttle forward to put the outdrive in forward gear, back the 6 outdrive mounting bolts most of the way out and try to back back the outdrive off a little. If it moves, disconnect the two trim rams and 6 bolts and pull it off (it's heavy). If it doesn't move, use the trim rams to back it off.
Climb back in the boat and disconnect the fuel line, wire harness, control and shift cable, and battery wires from the starter and block. Remove the 2 aft mounting bolts and the 2 motor mounts and lift it forward and up, then out of the way. I think that's about it.
While you have the outdrive out go ahead and change the lower shift cable. Also check the exhaust and drive shaft bellows and chanbe them if the haven't been changed in a while. You can get an outdrive kit that has all teh seals and other things that you need.
I would also put new drain fittings in the engine block. They are cheap and make it an easier task when they need to be opened up.
Here's how I pulled my 305 out.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Need to pull engine
Dan,
Thanks for the help and advice. If you have any exhaust manifolds available let me know. Both are cracked. I found a massive crack in the block so the engine is coming out also. Is there somewhere I can get detailed instruction on removal and installation of the engine. Your info helped but I will need info on lining things up during the install, bleeding the hydraulics and whatever else.
Thanks,
Greg
248-766-2403
gpowrie@ilgi.com
Thanks for the help and advice. If you have any exhaust manifolds available let me know. Both are cracked. I found a massive crack in the block so the engine is coming out also. Is there somewhere I can get detailed instruction on removal and installation of the engine. Your info helped but I will need info on lining things up during the install, bleeding the hydraulics and whatever else.
Thanks,
Greg
248-766-2403
gpowrie@ilgi.com
#4
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Savannah, Ga.
Posts: 37
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Greg, you use an engine alignment tool (about $45-55) to make sure the forward engine mounts are adjust properly. It slips in through the gimbal bearing just like the drive shaft does. The trim rams are self bleeding. Just a few up and down cycles. That reminds me. More often than not your trim sender and trim indicator switces are bad or the wiring at the bell housing is bad, so check that too.
Get yourself a SELOC manual if you don't have one already. You can get it at this link.
http://www.boatfix.com/seloc.asp?cat=io
When you pull the engine out and pull the oil pan off make sure there is no corrosion on the bottom of the oil pan and that the oil pickup screen is nice and secure.
Get yourself a SELOC manual if you don't have one already. You can get it at this link.
http://www.boatfix.com/seloc.asp?cat=io
When you pull the engine out and pull the oil pan off make sure there is no corrosion on the bottom of the oil pan and that the oil pickup screen is nice and secure.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
350 in for the 305 Mercruiser
I pulled the engine and found the block cracked. Bought a used Chevy 350 (Volvo on the tag) to replace the 305. The problem is the flywheel and coulper don't fit the 350. The bolt pattern on the 305 is larger than the pattern on the 350. Never saw this before working on cars. Boating is a new thing.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?