May aquire a boat but is it worth it, need your opinion!

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  #1  
Old 04-20-09, 06:04 PM
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May aquire a boat but is it worth it, need your opinion!

I have the oppertunity to get a 16' Sylvan deep V fishing boat including a 50 hp Merc and trailer. It has 2 pedestal seats, a live well, and rod lockers down the side. BUT..... here's the deal....

The boat is probably early 80's, the transom needs to be replaced, one section of floor needs replaced, the bottom end is poped out of the housing, and the motor hasn't been run since 1997. The hull is alumimum and in good shape, the trailer needs tires and maybe bearings by now.

Given the problems listed, would you take it for free and fix it? The owner is an older gentleman neighbor and would want me to fix it up and not take it and sell it. What do you think? Would a motor not being run that long be worth saving or even be salvagable? How hard would it be to replace the transom, it looks like it just slides out of a channel.
 
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Old 04-21-09, 04:09 AM
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Free? The floorboard & transom = a chunk of marine-grade 3/4" plywood for around $100. Trailer bearings are probably $20 each. Tires $40 each. Don't know what "popped out of the housing" means, but if it isn't structural it's an easy fix. The main thing is, the hull is in good shape -- no popped rivets, no splits or rips in the aluminum.

As for the motor, if it was winterized 12 years ago it may need its fluids changed, maybe the carb cleaned, some new plugs, a new impeller.

You'll also need the Coast Guard package: PFDs, anchor, lights, horn, flares, etc. Dock lines & fenders.

Several weekends and $1,000 should get you on the water.
 
  #3  
Old 04-21-09, 05:58 AM
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My big concern is the motor, I'm afraid that he didn't winterize it. He kind of elluded that he didn't and the lower end froze causing it to pop out. Basically it looks like the prop shot out of the housing. He didn't hit anything, it was running when parked. Without winterization, would the pistons be froze? Don't they typically fog the cylinder with oil? Obviously the carbs would be gummed up, he also said that the starter has a bendix problem and kicks out, doesn't sound like a big deal.

Does the wood on the transom just pull up out of the channel when you remove the top aluminum cap? Obviously I would have to lift off the motor first and there would probably a couple of screws or rivets.

The hull is great, no dings, scrapes, or gouges, like I said, he used it up until the day that it was parked. The rivits all look tight from what I can see, they're still covered with hull paint which is original.
 
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Old 04-21-09, 08:27 AM
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If you need a boat and it is free I would jump on it.
As far as him telling you not to sell it I would think that if you put any investment into it your obligation to him would be done.

I have an aluminum boat that I pulled out the transom plywood insert and replaced it with a taller on for a long shaft outboard.
I would assume yours would be similar.
Jump on it quick and even if the motor is shot you should be able to get a used one for a decent price.

If you take some clear pictures of the boat and damage you can post them on a free site like Photo Bucket and provide a link.
 
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Old 04-22-09, 03:47 AM
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RE Winterization: During the winterization process it's SOP to squirt a bit of oil into the cylinders to prevent rust & corrosion, but it's not mission-critical.

The biggest concern I'd have is the water jacket in the engine block. If there's water in the block and it froze, you probably have a cracked block. At the other end, the lower drive and transmission (bullet-shaped housing forward of the prop) is normally filled with gear lube. The lube is designed to emulsify some water, but only to a point. If there's a leaky seal the amount of water will overwhelm the ability of the lube to emulsify. As the water separates from the lube it settles to the bottom of the drive. When it froze, it pushed against the the prop shaft seals.

If that's the case, you're looking at a coupla thousand in repairs.
 
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Old 04-27-09, 05:53 PM
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I got a closer look and come to find out that he did do somewhat of a winterization.

The motor turns over by hand like it was run yesterday, the prop has poped out of the housing and the case is not cracked. He said that he drained the carbs after the last run too. The engine turns out to be older than the boat, the boat is around a 1980 and the engine mid/late 70's. The motor is a 4 cylinder 50 hp Merc, one of the ones that is black and has 500 on the side. The steering linkage appears to be frozen or at least real stiff, he said that there is a grease fitting somewhere.

So, given the motor issues and not been run since 1997, what is in order? New plugs, possible cleaning the carbs, replace the impeller, change the lube in the lower end, and get the lower end back together. Do you have any suggestions/corrections? Are points and condenser in order or is this electronic ignition? What allowed water to enter the lower end and pop out the prop?

He said that the starter won't stay engaged as long as it should. Is this typically a mechanical problem or a solenoid problem with the starter? Can these be repaired or do you just get a new one?

The right rear section of floor is bad, the drain plug got blocked and the cover is shot, it filled with a couple inches of water. Will I have to replace the entire floor, or is that floor in sections?
 
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Old 04-27-09, 07:43 PM
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Well it sounds like your plan is in order and it does have points.

When you say the prop came out of the housing do you mean the outer part with the blades has come loose from the hub "center part". If the hub has come loose from the blade housing I would just buy another prop, it can be rehubbed but it will cost the same as a new prop. If the propshaft has come out of the housing your looking at a new gearcase wich will cast a bundle.

With the starter it could be a weak battery or a weak starter and I'm not sure if you can get parts to rebuild that starter or it might have to be replaced.

The floor will be in sections usually a center section and 2 outer parts. It might be easiest to replace a full section.
 
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Old 04-28-09, 05:44 AM
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The prop itself is OK, what has come out is the shaft with the prop on it. There is a large ring about 3-4" in diameter that has rings or threads around it.
 
  #9  
Old 04-28-09, 07:39 PM
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It sounds like you need a new gearcase. It sounds like the rear bearing carrier is what is out and if it was pused out it took the treads with it so the case and carrier are bad.
 
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