boat floor wood

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  #1  
Old 04-30-09, 01:44 PM
wwc
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boat floor wood

I have a fish and ski boat and the back bench seat folds down even with the rear deck, one of the seat backs wod is rotten and i want to replace the wood and repair the seat back.

can i use any same thickness wood as long as i paint it or seal it against water or do i have to use marine grade plywood like was in it.

I went to lowes and i ddin't see marine grade wood but i did see outdoor plywood, is that the same thing ?
 
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Old 04-30-09, 05:39 PM
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I am no expert, lets start there.

Thinking about this, I would assume that outdoor plywood is designed to handle rain, the typical morning mildew, and snow.

If your boat is in the water all of the time, like sitting at a dock, I would think there is more consistent exposure to moisture and outdoor plywood might not be the way to go if you are looking for a long term solution.

However, sealing the wood with paint and what not would probably give you a few years and its cheap enough you can always repair it again.

If it were me, I wood (pun) continue to search for that marine wood you are talking about

so here are a few links ive found for you:
Boat building lumber and plywood


Good luck
-joel
 

Last edited by Rick Johnston; 05-01-09 at 04:09 AM. Reason: Sorry - Links to other forums are not allowed.
  #3  
Old 05-01-09, 04:08 AM
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CDX exterior plywood (the kind you find at the big box stores) is made with glue that's not water soluble, but it's still wood. It's designed to be protected by roofing shingles or an exterior coating, and it's never used where it's exposed to standing water.

The problem with using it for boat flooring is, the water sits with little drainage until it dries. One tiny hole in the coating (even a screw hole) will allow the water to go to work on the wood ply.

That said, I used it to replace a carpeted floorboard in my former boat, but I "painted" it on all sides with marine epoxy resin that I had left over from a fiberglass project (new doghouse). If you were to buy the CDX and the gallon of resin & hardener, you'll wind up paying the same as you would for a chunk of marine-grade plywood.
 
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Old 05-01-09, 01:08 PM
wwc
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Well I want it to last a decent while, and it see alot of water from people stepping on it and rain while fishing.
so i guess i'll keep looking for the marine grade wood.
 
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Old 05-01-09, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wwc View Post
Well I want it to last a decent while, and it see a lot of water from people stepping on it and rain while fishing.
so i guess i'll keep looking for the marine grade wood.
If you want it to really last buy marine grade ply and fiberglass it, thats how your boat is made to begin with,

Now thats a lot of expense. I used exterior ply and spar urethane on the ply that and no problems for 10 years. I do cover boat when I can but It gets real wet all summer and fall fishing. ( minimax spar urethane)

On a side note don't forget the strange metal grommets that wedge in the ply to keep it from turning so you can bolt through that for hinging. It needs to go on before the seat vinyl.

I replaced all of my boat seats and gunnel's with the ply and it worked great.
 
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Old 05-01-09, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
On a side note don't forget the strange metal grommets that wedge in the ply to keep it from turning so you can bolt through that for hinging.
Those are called T-nuts. Use stainless steel or they'll rust.



Picture courtesy boltdepot.com
 
  #7  
Old 05-02-09, 08:47 AM
wwc
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I saved the original t nuts but they are rusty so i may buy new ones if i can find them easy.
if i don't find the marine grade i'll go with the urathane on exterior ply, sounds good. ten years is plenty time for me.
 
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