Hello,
My 2003 Johnson 115 outboard took a hit on a shallow oyster bar this month. It broke the entire skeg off and the ring behind the prop. I barely clipped the oyster bed with the end but it took the whole end off. No problem, I have insurance, right? Yeah, they said since it's an old motor, they will only pay 20% of parts and I have a $500 deductible. So they will pay $400 on a new $2000 lower unit but my deductible is more than that. So I'm just going to find a good lower unit and put it on myself since it's a quick job. I need to know what lower units are interchangeable. I see some on E-tecs and loopers and stuff that look similar but will they interchange? My model is j115plsrc
The bad part is that I would have cleared the oysters if I had moved over 4 feet either way. And I would have cleared them if I was going my normal speed, but I was going slow to accommodate the folks we were with in my slower aluminum boat. Oh well, it happens. I have the area marked on my gps and will steer clear of it now. Thanks for any info!
Don’t feel bad I’m in freshwater only where I live and a couple of weeks ago was night fishing with a new Garmin I didn’t know how to use yet. Come to find out it was as easy as setting the launch as a weigh point with one button and fallowing my tracks back. But nope. When coming back trying to navigate with flashing a small spot light every few seconds and the lake being almost 6’ low. I was looking for buoys I knew where there.
I wasn’t anywhere near the buoys and beached the boat on a point that was then sticking way out above the water. Now I’m about to pressure test my lower unit because I noticed a little water when I drained it. The dial indicator will be here Tuesday so I can check the prop shaft for runout Incase I bent it. And I to am now missing a chipped piece from the scag.
Have you tried eBay for a lower unit? And do you have the serial number to go along with the model of your 115? I can research some of the sources I use.
Oh and mine is a 1992 Yamaha so I’m in the same shape with insurance as you are. I keep it more for liability than damages. Now if the whole boat goes down all my gear is covered and they’d have to write a check for that. But I’d still be out a boat. The boat is a 1983 aluminum boat I drug out of a field and rebuilt.
Very hard to identify which units will fit your engine.
The base part number for the lower unit is 5006312.
Search that part number on google. Use image search too.
In that search found a unit that looked like yours on ebay. The lower fin was broken. Good price. 5006312 on Ebay
boats.net Also has excellent parts break downs. And have a lot of parts etc. for older outboards and boats.
They’re one of the few that even list my 1992 Yamaha. Also the only place on line I found the specs for my 1983 Monark I’m rebuilding. Monark is no longer around.
Pumas is correct about the model number showing to be a 2004. And X 2 on the rest of his advice.
Im showing a new complete gear case Assy. Painted white $4,943.92 new ready to bolt on. Which would still be a hard hit to your pocket with your insurance. But it gives you another part number to look for.
# 5005743.
A gear case and bearing assembly part# 5004767 is $1,689.
Here’s one on eBay for $800. As always a good idea to check the sellers ratings etc. I would check you prop shaft for runout Incase the impact damaged it.
I have a 14' 1960's era aluminum boat. However, it has a slow leak so it cannot be left unattended in the water. Twice I have tried to fix it by applying Gluvit and Coat-It epoxy sealer to all seams, rivets, and other places of possible leaking. (I did this work on the outside of the boat, since the seats & hardware would interfere with working on the inside.) I have replaced the drain plug. However, the problem continues. Any ideas?Read More
07-30-23, 06:46 PM
