yamaha atv restore questions

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  #1  
Old 04-05-03, 04:53 AM
John Hall
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yamaha atv restore questions

Hello, i traded my fishing boat and motor for a yamaha 250 bear tracker atv that also needs repairs

the atv was on a dairy farm and has been sitting for over a year. even though its pretty new (99) its in bad shape from hard use.
the motor has compression and the fuel had been removed when parked. plastic is fair but someone had spray painted it blaze orange so it could be seen from far away. oh boy! . biggest problem seems to be all the racks are bent from cow encounters?
and the unit has no spark. i have the old switch complete with key broken off in it. but it now has a jury rig toggle for ignition.
headlight still has neutral safety and reverse indicator wired properly.tires are also shot bald but do hold air after pumping up.
also no rear brakes.

heck my boat leaked and needed water pump so it was an ok trade i guess. any of you that have cycle experiance and might wabt to help advise me on this resto , i will be very greatful.

1. plastic removed now so are racks , im going to heat and straighten them and reweld. plastic needs to be stripped with something or sanded and repaint. former paint did not adhere very well and guys its real orange! argh! i want camo so i can hunt. any ideas on proper paint for polyethelene plastics?

2. tires are 10x10x 22 is this wheel width tire width and diameter?
if so can i go wider? and who has cheapest tires or used?

3. i changed oil with what i had 10w30 machine manual says 20w40
but old oil was bad so any new oil i thought might be better for it.
do i really need 20w40 in florida??

4. the no spark problem. i think if they have not burned the ignition up so far. its this toggle switch they have tried to install, the dealer wants 41 dollars for a new switch. i dont think so. so the toggle if it will work is the way i want to go. even new toggle for 3 dollars. im not cheap im disabled and broke.

out of the lower switch harness is a red , a brown , a black and a black/white wires. i assume the brown is lighting the red is hot? any ideas on the wiring?

so anyway its a mess and i need as much guidance as you can give me. i think the poor old machine can be made to run and will be ok with much tlc. sincere thanks to you all. john
 
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  #2  
Old 04-16-03, 11:08 AM
PPakrs1
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John,
I have a YFM250 atv and if it is the same as mine, then here is a little bit of info for you...
The WIRINGRED is the "HOT" wire)
1: MAIN KEY SWITCH: position: continuity between:
ON red & brown
ON blue/white & blue/red
OFF black & black/white
LOCK black & black/white
PARK black & black/white
PARK red & blue/red

2: HANDLEBAR SWITCH: RUN "open"
OFF black & black/white

3: LIGHTS OFF "open"
LO brown & blue & green
HI brown & blue & yellow

4: STARTER SWITCH: OFF "open"
ON brown & red/white

5: NUETRAL SWITCH: connects "SKYBLUE" to "BLACK"

Now on the "no spark" problem;
1: Spark plug ok?
2: Spark plug cap resistance 10k ohms?
3: Ignition coil resistance:
Primary coil.72 to .98 ohms) Take the tester (+) lead to the orange terminal and the tester (-) lead to the ignition coil base.
Secondary coil (5.0 to 6.8 ohms) Take the tester (+) lead to the spark plug lead and the tester (-) lead to the ignition coil base.
4: Check switches for operation (see above text)
5: Source coil resistance (288 to 352 ohms) Disconnect the magneto coupler from the wiring hrness. Connect tester (+) lead to the brown terminal and the tester (-) lead to the black terminal.
6: Pickup coil resistance: (180 to 220 ohms) With the magneto coupler disconnected, connect tester (+) lead to white/green terminal and the tester (-) lead to the white/red terminal.
7: Check wiring and conections...
8: Replace the CDI (magneto coupler).

I hope the helps....
Dean
 
  #3  
Old 04-16-03, 07:39 PM
John Hall
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WoW! yes Dean, i think your reply will surely help me. i have planned to purchase a repair manual for the bike on cd rom from a man on ebay. that will give proper torque and procedures.

i did get all the racks removed from the bike. they were a mess. the back i think i can fix but the front is another story. without cutting and replacing the bad parts. they are bent too badly and the tubes are already collapsed.

also i have found that the lovely blaze orange part the former owner sprayed on will come off with much effort. slow going but it is coming off and the plastic is still ok.

i plan to just try to install the toggle switch due to the fact replacement orig. is 40 + dollars but with the wiring locations you gave me. should be ok (i hope). im not worried about theft here when i hunt as i know most everyone and they all have new or almost new atv's and all of them are 4x4. besides with myself being disabled ill be sitting with it in my stand area. i have a camo net off my airboat that will work fine.

how long is the pull rope on your atv? this one seems mighty short like about 18 inches. is that correct? what a ******* it is to pull. feels like a fifty horse outboard. maybe a compression release in the future??


but Dean i do truly apreciate your help and guidance. very nice of you to help me. most sincerely , John
 
  #4  
Old 04-16-03, 09:44 PM
PPakrs1
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John, My ATV is a 1989 model and I also aquired it a few years back from my brother, who let it sit in the garage for approx. 3 years and he never fixed anything on it!
The info I gave you is from a service manual that I bought, which is awesome. It has wiring prints, troubleshooting charts, engine overhaul procedures and LOTS of illustrations.
Being that the machine is so old, every part that I needed, the dealer had to order and the parts are not cheap. A starter was $200, Muffler-$165, front lower brake cables-$16 and so on.
I dont know how long the manual start "pull" string is because it doesnt have one. If I take off a side cover, there are provisions to wrap a string around a pulley and start the machine, but I guess that would be in an emergency situation.
If you need any other info from my book, give me a holler...

Dean
 
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