Changing oil in a 2003 H/D duce

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  #1  
Old 08-20-03, 05:56 PM
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Changing oil in a 2003 H/D duce

I know how to change the oil in the tranny case and in the main drive case. I am not sure how to do the engine oil. I have 2 drain plugs 1 in the bottom of the engine and 1 for the oil tank. The oil tank is a no brainer, however, when I drain the oil from the crankcase how will the oil get back in there. WIll it get there when I start the engine.
I darn sure don't want to have a dry start.
Is there a site I can go to for additional info. I do plan to get a manual for the bike soon for additional tips on the maintenence for it. Thanks in advance George K. in Alabama

Live to ride, and ride to live..
 
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  #2  
Old 09-03-03, 09:19 PM
Hippie1950
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Re: Oil Change

George, when you trfill the tank, it will enter the crankcase. Harley's use roller bearings on the crankcase, and there is residual oil on them. Do Not rev the engine when you first start it! let the engine idle, even if you have to redtart it a few times. Make sure the oil light goes out as it starts. I think this engine now has an external oil filter, so fill the oil filter with oil before installing it. You may lose a little, but this helps to avoid a dry start, and an air lock in the oil system. Hope this helps, and feel free to contact me with any other questions.
Hippie in Texas
 
  #3  
Old 09-08-03, 03:23 PM
mikehalker
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There is an external filter and you may have to remove a small electrical looking plug on the front of the case. This is the crank position sensor. There will be no fluid loss so just remove the screw and move it until you're finished. Also make sure it's back in place after because it won't run without it. Filling the filter with oil isn't necessary due to the residuals in the system. Most scooter shops carry filter wrenches with a slot to bypass the sensor if you're interested. Try to change the oil with the motor warm to hot as you'll remove more debris when the oil flows smoothly. And just FYI, if you're doing your own services, keep the receipts for your oil, filters, etc. for your warranty and you should keep a manual around as you should be checking primary chain adjustment, etc, during your services. Finding a local independent wrench in the biker bar down the street and buying him a beer also can prove to be invaluable. Ride Safe, Mike
 
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Old 09-08-03, 06:41 PM
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oil change

Mike, gotcha on the oil change, bought an oil wrench as you suggested, but I do have a question on the primary chain adjustment. At slow speeds the bike jerks, when I pull off the little cover the chain is tight but at the top of the case, there is an excessive amount of play. How do I get the play in the chain on the bottom instead of the top so I can make the adjustment correctly? If I adjust the chain too tight, will it wear out the nylon pad on the adjuster? Thanks in advance.
George
 
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Old 09-08-03, 09:30 PM
mikehalker
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It can wear out the adjuster, but the primary chain stretching or breaking will be more of a concern. Be sure the play is measured correctly as there will be some play. I don't have a manual in front of me but most of the twin cams are about 5/8 of an inch I believe. If your play is excessive, make a mark where the pad is located now and loosen the adjuster and move it up a hair. Retighten and roll the wheel in gear and the adjustment will be reflected at the top. As a general rule, too loose is better than too tight. Unless you're hearing knocking in the top of the primary, you're probably not bad off. I don't think the primary chain would cause jerking at low speeds so there may be another problem. I would look toward the carb maybe. If it's injected, it should be compensating itself at low speed so I wouldn't mess with it. Some folks like the sound of a low idle so they adjust it down not realizing what it does to a v twin motor. Low idles kill engines so maybe ease the idle adjustment up a bit and see if it improves. If not, let me know if you've made any modifications over stock on exhaust, carb, etc and we'll see if we can chase it down.
Mike
ps. When loosening the adjuster, don't take the thing all the way out or it'll fall down in the primary from the back and you'll have to pull the cover. Just loose enough to move it will work.
 
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Old 09-09-03, 03:19 PM
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Thanks Mike for the info, I think I will buy a manuel for the bike this weekend. The reason I asked about the chain is that I just can't get the feel of the clutch. Sometimes I think I have no clue on how to shift and I know I do. And there are other times I have no problem and everything is fine. This is my first H/D , am I expecting to much or am I over critical of myself. George
 
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Old 09-09-03, 08:59 PM
mikehalker
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Maybe you need a clutch adjustment. There should be enough play in the cable to insert a nickel between the lever and the perch where the cable hits the lever. If not, slide the boot off of the clutch adjuster about half way down the cable. Then loosen the lock nut that's cinched down on the wide adjuster. Turn the adjuster until the play is right and tighten down the locknut. A tight clutch can make it jumpy. You might try a little extra play until you get used to it. Don't go too loose though, or it could wear out your clutch. If the bike pulls with the clutch in and it's in gear, it's too loose. The other adjustment is in the primary and should be fine on a newer bike. It's also a little tougher to do. Keep on riding it and everything will get smoother. Mike
 
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Old 09-10-03, 06:37 PM
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Thanks Mike I will try that. You seem to be good at this tech stuff maybe you should ask for moderator status in this forum. I will be I touch Thanks again for your help. As you can see I'm a "Newbie" at this street stuff. I did have several dirt bikes years ago.CM
 
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Old 09-10-03, 08:27 PM
mikehalker
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Hope it works. Let me know if I can help.
Mike
 
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