Snowmobile Engine Running Problem

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  #1  
Old 01-13-04, 01:34 PM
ralphluv
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Snowmobile need help badly need input???

I have a 2001 skidoomxz 500 trail liquid cooled and I did all pre mantaince on it cleaned carbs etc. Took it out on the trails it didnt want to go over 40mph it would take off good gut bog down when reached to bout 40mph. Checked the muffler all clear getting spark on both cylinders and checked compression and got 150 psi on both sides. Then went out and then it quit no gas getting to it so I rebuilt the fuel pump and fuel pump is but when i hooked it up it seems like its not pump strong enough HELP PLease could it be crank seal broke and thats why it wont go over 40 either orwhat can it be?
 
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  #2  
Old 01-13-04, 07:20 PM
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Someone in here may be able to help you, but you would have more luck if you post your question in the Motercycles ATV forum. But its good to be in two places at once right?
 
  #3  
Old 01-13-04, 07:31 PM
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Perhaps you have a plugged fuel filter.
 
  #4  
Old 01-13-04, 11:36 PM
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Hello ralphluv!

I am not a snowmobile expert, but I'll try to help.

Check the screen in the tank to be sure it is not plugged up.

Check the flow out of the fuel shutoff valve to be sure it is allowing fuel to flow properly.

Check the fuel filter as jughead mentioned. (if it has a filter other than the in-tank screen).

Make sure the air hose is not restricted.

Check the boots that connect the carb to the engine. Make sure they don't have cracks or splits or any other means of drawing outside air.

Let us know what you find!
 
  #5  
Old 01-14-04, 11:47 AM
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I will take a couple of stabs at this one...

First of all you said it wouldn't break 40mph without bogging...that sounds like a jetting issue to me...there are two types of "bog"...lean bog and rich bog....you can tell the difference by giving it a shot of fuel while it is bogging with either the choke or the primer if so equipped....if the machine takes off when you do this...it is a lean bog. Either way you need to do some jetting work.

Now after your ride that it quit on...did you check your plugs again? What color were they? White is bad...golden brown is good...

You rebuilt the pump...did you make sure the diaphragm was in properly...not upside down? done that myself...I don't know what kind of pump you have but chances are a new pump was cheaper than a kit for it as ridiculous as that seems...

As far as a crank seal going..that is a possibility and would cause a lean situation, thereby possibly ruining pistons and/or cylinders...(white plugs can tell you this)

I hope my 2 cents worth helps you find your problem!. Let us know!
 
  #6  
Old 01-14-04, 02:14 PM
ralphluv
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Would it be bad reeds doing this? plugs are fine oil residue.
 
  #7  
Old 01-15-04, 01:30 PM
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Have you got the machine running yet and are back at the 40mph problem? Or are we still at the not starting issue?

One thing that you can also do to make sure everything is good inside the cylinders is pop your exhaust out and remove the exhaust manifold....from there you can see your pistons and when at BDC, your cylinder walls...make sure they are not scarred up...

If you do get it running (or have it running) lift the track off the ground and see if you can get full rpm's that way...if you can, you may have a clutching issue...

If you can...have a pressure and vacuum test done on the engine...this will tell you if the crank seals are shot...as it is not still ruled out.

Oh yeah...your reed blocks...should only be 4 bolts on each to pull them...a fairly easy check with the carbs off...if they are shot...its very hard for the machine to run properly if at all...

just a couple more things to look at...
 
  #8  
Old 01-17-04, 02:18 PM
ralphluv
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Hey thanks dennis for yr input so far changed the reed pedals old ones didnt look to bad sled started right up after putting in the new pedals didnt check to see if i have the same problem but I will get back to you on this so ill keep in touch thanks
 
  #9  
Old 01-18-04, 01:14 PM
ralphluv
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Well I took out the sled today and it didnt want to go over 30mph it would take off good you can feel power behind the take off soon as it hits 30 mph it wont go any faster and at that point im at 4500 RPM. Its not running lean or rich the plugs after i rode were golden brown not wet either dry. Would it be my secondary not kicking in would you suggest on rebuilting the secondary or would it be the primary or both. I also lifted up the track and hit the gas and it went up to speed like you said I know its the clutch but which one ?
 
  #10  
Old 01-19-04, 07:32 AM
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Lightbulb My Two Cents

Hello: Ralph

All the focus has been placed on the engine having a problem. Yet nothing has been determined to be the cause. Possible the governor and or the governor linkage is stopping the engine from reving above the 4500 rpm range.

Check the linkage for binding, set correctly in the link hole on the lever arm, etc. Also possible there is binding in another part or assembly of the driving mechanism, gearing, etc.

The idea here is to direct the focus of attention towards another area of possible causes. I am personally not all that familar with snowmobiles or ATV's but most likely there are members whom are and can provide additional help in this forum topic.

If you posted your question in this topic already, I will read that one also. I edited the subject line to better attract the attention of members whom have these types of motorized vehicles.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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  #11  
Old 01-19-04, 10:06 AM
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We are looking at clutching issues now that you have the engine running good.

Your engine won't have a govenor or any sort of govenor linkage.

There are two ways to look at the clutching issue, first of all check your secondary clutch and see what kind of load it takes to open it....it should be about 16lbs pull....it is possible that your secondary is opening way too easy and thereby not letting the primary do its job...then you can look at the primary...it is also very possible you have too heavy of a spring or too light of weights in the primary.
When you take the clutch apart and get to the spring...it should have two colored markings on it...call your dealer to find out what it should have and double check the colors to what you have...probably a purple/purple. I will email you a couple pics of what I am talking about as soon as I can get a chance...there is also a bolt with 6 settings on it (the clutch) for tension...I will try to send you a pic of that as well.

Hope this helps a bit more!
 
  #12  
Old 01-19-04, 02:22 PM
ralphluv
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Thanks for all of you guys feedback really appreciate it I always highly recommend people here because when u need answers there here. Dennis thanks a bunch man yr real helpful and another thing i forgot to mention to yeah is I tried to adjust the belt tensioner because the sled when idling would move and if i hit the brakes it didnt want to idle i tried lossening it but it still moves when idling if this helps to help me thanks
 
  #13  
Old 01-20-04, 03:40 PM
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Ralph...that just sounds like your engine is idling too high and trying to engage the belt, but this could also be indicative of light clutch shoes, and/or a heavy spring.
 
  #14  
Old 01-20-04, 08:00 PM
ralphluv
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Thanks for returning to me dennis the engine is not idling high at all what i meant was last year it didnt do this at all and all of a sudden this year the belt seems to be to tight on the secondary I lifted the track in the air and turned the bolts inward to open it more for the belt deflection and it still the track moves when idling at times it sits so tight that it doesnt want to stay idling because its making the primary slow down but last year I never had a tight belt problem i turned the bolts all the way in and you cant turn them in anymore and still tight belt symptoms new and old belt same results so do you think my secondary is bad or?
 
  #15  
Old 01-21-04, 12:27 PM
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Ralph, I think what you need to do is take apart both the clutches and clean them out real good checking for anything that may be inhibiting their movement. Belt dust compounded with 2 stroke oil (blowback)does wonders to making clutches not work properly..typically your clutches should be cleaned once a year. Without having the sled in front of us...it is very difficult to see what is going on...Let me know if the cleaning works!
 
  #16  
Old 01-22-04, 07:53 PM
ralphluv
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Cleaned them and notice the Belt is running on top of the primary theres rubber marks and still same results?
 
  #17  
Old 01-22-04, 08:43 PM
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do you have a digital camera to send some pictures of the clutches and setup?
 
  #18  
Old 02-20-09, 03:35 PM
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check where ure exhaust comes out on the bottom of the sled snd make sure its not bent over prreventing exhaust flow out and to much back pressure!
 
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