Racing Lawnmower

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  #1  
Old 03-01-05, 12:08 PM
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Exclamation Racing Lawnmower

I am working on building a racing lawnmower. I am not using it as a seriouscircuit lawnmmower racer because there aren't any around me. It will be mainly for fun. (the main reason is that i am not old enough to drive legally so i have to have another option to go fast) I am a gearhead at heart. i used to do garden tractor pulling so don't be afaraid, and no pilot dane, i can't use methanol. too expensive around here.
 
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Old 03-01-05, 12:39 PM
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no one has replied yet???
 
  #3  
Old 03-01-05, 05:06 PM
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You are crazy man!!!! I don't mind going a hundred with no seat belt or roll cage, but those racing lawnmowers are just suicide. I've seen those guys taking corners on two wheels. Those mowers look like they would flip too darn easy.

Don't worry about not running methanol. It's got a nice sweet smell but it's; expensive, eats aluminum, and sucks a lot of moisture out of the air. My favorite engine is currently running on 100LL (av gas)(I converted is from alcohol back to gas). It evaporates without leaving a smell and the lead seems to help slow valve wear, and you can crank up the compression.

Write back with progress reports on your monster mower.
 
  #4  
Old 03-02-05, 06:11 AM
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i still need to get hold of one to make the monster modifacation first. but i would like any help possible choosing whats the best and help making the actual plans. there is a guy in my town here that has one that is a dynamark with an 18 horse b/s. he put pipes from a harley on it cause it sure is loud enogh to be them. well, his will do 45mph on a straight away.
 
  #5  
Old 03-03-05, 09:53 AM
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Lawnmower racing is popular in my neck of the woods. I have raced myself and am now a director and tech inspector for our local circuit. We have 4 different classes of racers: "Lawn Legal", which are bone stock; "Stock", which allows for limited mods; "Super Stock", some mods allowed over and above the stock class; and "Modified", many chassis and engine mods allowed. My Modified racers, which, in appearance, look like dirt track modified cars, that I have built for myself and race team members reach speeds of about 55mph on our bigger tracks. Give us a 1/4 mile track and I'll guarantee they'll hit 65. The stockers will do about 25-30. Our rules allow for an engine no larger than 28 cubic inches, which is anywhere from a 10.5 horse up to 16 horse with required/limited mods depending on the class run. I like the Tecumseh 10 horse engine on short tracks - due to it's short stroke and a Briggs 12 horse for the long tracks. Mind you my modified engines have alot of loot dropped into them with all custom machining and parts. Some hints for you in the chassis area would be to look for a sturdy, step-through frame. I'm privy to a mid-seventies through early eighties Murray frame. Sturdy (little frame flex) and just a nice set-up for the Peerless 600 series tranny, which is by far the strongest and lightest tranny to use. Not to mention, it has a excellent gear ratio in third (top) gear. Beware, there are 601, slow-speed series Peerless tranny's you will find out there...stay away from these, the ratio is no good. These are identifiable by the model tag stating as 601-XXX. For a cheap project, find yourself an abandoned old Murray already with the Peerless 3-speed, 600 series shifter tranny. This machine will likely have a 10 or 12 horse power plant. Get the engine running good, boost the top RPM up to 4200, put a 4 1/2" pulley on the engine and and a 3 or 3 1/2" on the tranny, use a quality (I like Gates) "A" series belt, get your idlers in the right positions (you'll need more than one since the drive and driven pulleys are so small that the belt will tend to contact itself unless you divert the belt (drive side) out and away from the slack side (which will also be your clutched side (as usual)), make yourself a seperate, (from the clutch pedal) foot or hand-operated brake control, and finally, make up a foot operated throttle pedal. Get yourself a good helmet and have fun. And oh yeah!!! Be careful.
 
  #6  
Old 03-03-05, 10:43 AM
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Also, weld up the front axle so that it doesn't pivot. The angle at which you weld it will determine the wedge (weight percentage at each wheel). Doing such will help your stability in running circle tracks. If you don't mind a little more work, and do what I did, make the axle adjustable whereas you'll have a heavy (5/8") bolt on each side of the axle, welding a nut to the frame (so you can adjust each such). You'll need to use a jam nut with each bolt so that they don't back off at all. Another thing I do is have a solid rear axle shaft machined so that you have posi-drive. This is something not necessary but is nice to have.
 
  #7  
Old 03-03-05, 05:12 PM
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so i should be looking for an older murray instead of a dynamark?
 
  #8  
Old 03-03-05, 11:27 PM
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If you have an old dynamark, don't let it pass by without checking the tranny. The old peerless/foote 3 speeds are real tough like puey said. They have forged gears too if I recall correctly. Dynamark used them a lot, and even if you decide against the mower frame, it might be worth getting just for the tranny if it has the right one.
 
  #9  
Old 03-04-05, 05:02 AM
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somebody wouldnt happen to have any contacts with maybe a dynamark or a murray for sale would they?
 
  #10  
Old 03-04-05, 08:37 AM
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You may have to drive a bit to find what you're looking for but don't you have any lawn mower boneyards in your area of PA? That's the first place I'd look. From where I hail from, we have several boneyards within 20 or so miles. My first build actually came from the side of the road. By the way, that Dynamark you have is not ideal as it is not a step through type frame, they are a very tall tractor and tend to be top heavy. Not something you want on a machine with no suspension and capable of 30-plus mph. Be patient and something should come your way. Hey, I almost forgot, I have a complete machine torn apart completely that's been in a storage shed for a few years. If you're ever in upstate central New York, stop by my shop. I think we could negotiate a good deal. PM me if your interested.
 
  #11  
Old 03-04-05, 07:22 PM
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42 inch Deck 14.5 Briggs/s Murray Lawn Tractor - Used
14.5 HP Briggs & Stratton engine
Electric start
42" Adjustable deck - 6 positions
Turf friendly tires
The engine model numer is 287707 Briggs and Statton - 14.5 horse - 42 inch cut - tractor model number 42910X92A 1995 year bought it new for 1200 dollars. Still in excellent working condition.



how is this???? the picture makes it look like it is a newer one though
 
  #12  
Old 03-06-05, 06:17 AM
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is there any other advice out there that someone feels i should know about???
 
  #13  
Old 03-08-05, 06:38 PM
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anymore advice by anyone?
 
  #14  
Old 03-23-05, 06:15 PM
rebel42boy
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help

i need help i whant to no how to build a racing lawn mower xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
 

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  #15  
Old 03-27-05, 07:37 PM
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how to make a lawn tractor go fast

how do i ?
 
  #16  
Old 03-28-05, 05:03 AM
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to make a lawn tractor go fast, the easiest way to do it is to change the pulley on the engine to be bigger, alot bigger than the pulley on the tranny.
 
  #17  
Old 03-28-05, 02:13 PM
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hey kid!

Sorry I didn't catch the post on the Murray you found earlier...I was on a small vacation. That Murray has a hydrostatic drive...you won't get any speed out of these. You need a shifter tranny.
 
  #18  
Old 03-28-05, 04:25 PM
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ok. thanks for the advice. Someone offered me a dyna mark with a 12 horse engine. What do you think?
 
  #19  
Old 04-16-05, 01:10 PM
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i was wondering, last night i came up with the idea of just take the tractor engine and tranny off and putting a motorcycle engine and tranny in it running a chain back to a differental axle i would purchase off northern hydraulics, and sort of notching out the rear of the frame where the axle would be so i could manufacture sort of a swing arm suspension that i could also just scavenge off a four wheeler if i had to. i would get this tractor to be as low as i could, but i would still want to keep the body intact and on it. i would put front brakes and rear brakes on it ( seperate brake handles) there would be a clutch and it would have a gas pedal to drive it. thinking about it some more i would probably as well have to beef up the frame. Would this work? If you have any tips let me know.
 
  #20  
Old 04-22-05, 01:31 PM
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is someone ever going to answer me??
 
  #21  
Old 05-22-05, 08:54 PM
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i know what you need to know

Originally Posted by speeddrivenkid
is there any other advice out there that someone feels i should know about???
so you want to build a racing lawnmower i can tell you every little step on how to build one.the best motors out there is a kohler i run a 25horse on mine but i have alot of money in it but i can show you how to make one that will fit your budget.for starters you should get a single 12 or a 15 horse motor remember kohler is the best you can even leave the motor stock.you dont want to deal with any trannys what you want is 1 to 1 gear ratio you do this by finding an old gear box off a riding lawnmower deck then youll need a straight axle and piller block bearings what all this will do is make it chain driving. youll put a pully on the bottom of the gear box 6" pully and a 15 tooth pully on the top of the gear box (#35 chain) then youll have to get a racing go cart sprocket and a sprocket hub mount it on the axle now you run a chain from the gear box to the sprocket mount your motor and i would put a bicycle handle on the steering wheel for your throttle.if you want to email me at xxxxxxxxxx i can tell you more of my secrets just email me and ill show you all the steps. i have a racing lawnmower that will do 113 on a quarter mile track that i built all myself i also have xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
 

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  #22  
Old 06-18-05, 06:09 PM
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Exclamation Lawn Mower Racer

undefined Hey i wana Make a racing lawn mower too ive been reading your posts about them and i have a Question now is a four wheel drive craftsman lawn motor It is a 6 speed, has a 15 hp briggs engine good to make a racer??
 
  #23  
Old 06-21-05, 09:27 AM
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Probably not, you would have problems with the four wheel drive, and it is probably a bit to heavy.
 
  #24  
Old 06-24-05, 10:06 PM
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Would a newer 6 speed caftsman lawn mower work good or should i get all the information about it so u can tell
 
  #25  
Old 06-25-05, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by speeddrivenkid
to make a lawn tractor go fast, the easiest way to do it is to change the pulley on the engine to be bigger, alot bigger than the pulley on the tranny.
or put a smaller pulley on the tranny
 
  #26  
Old 06-25-05, 11:10 PM
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Exclamation Dyno Racing

Hey man i have a Dynamark 11hp 3600 rpm tops out at 67.80 on the dyno hemi,chips,turbo,inner coolers,nerf bars, special disc brakes, handbrake etc... and my dyn has not let me down yet i have about 2,000 in my mower but its how fast and heavly tuned but when i was a kid i had on for 50 buck then had it doing 30mph with only useing 80 bucks soo good luck any question or want to know tips about racing or soo maybe even we could find out were you live and get you start as in get a free mower get tought how to drive and stuff then we can sponcer you and you could win big bucks if you stick with it and i'v been racing now for couple of years and its a great cheap sport soo keep me informed
 
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Old 07-01-05, 12:05 PM
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I have a old murray 12hp tractor and i want to make it go fast! What do i need to do to make it go fast?
 
  #28  
Old 07-01-05, 02:03 PM
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Read the whole post and im sure you will be able to figure out what you need to do.
 
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Old 07-14-05, 08:30 AM
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I put a smaller pulley on my tranny that came off a mower deck and now my tractor goes twice as fast.
 
  #30  
Old 07-15-05, 12:26 PM
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Good for you. Now what you should do is the the pulley that was originally on the tranny and put it on the engine.
 
  #31  
Old 07-18-05, 11:58 AM
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I cant imagine how fast it would go if i did that.
Thanks for all the good ideas.
 
  #32  
Old 07-22-05, 07:18 PM
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respond to any of the above

ive built a few racing mowers within the last year ive been sideswiped by a truck on my old mower at about 45mph... so yes they are dangerous. just a few tips id like to give you, one first weild the front end solid, second weild the tranny (if you need to know how ask),put bigger wheels on the back, depending on how fast you wanna go replace the rear pulley as small as you can (i have about a 2") then on the front pulley just pull the stock one off and flip it around so the big one is ontopand put it back on, make a gas pedal (i used a go-ped throttle and cliped down to fit just right. mounted it to the oil drain tube.) make an exhaust ive found that straight up gets annoying we put it on my buddies mower but i went straight back with mine. sounded great till i over reved it and broke a valve and the flywheel. now im working on making a 4wd lifted lawnmower so if anybody has a good idea on how to do this let me know. hope this helps any other questions feel free to ask
 
  #33  
Old 07-26-05, 12:04 PM
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enginge tweekage

I have read all of your posts and they have helped me alot. i have changed the pully ratios and my tractor is pretty fast. but i know it can go faster would adjusting the throttle make a big difference or is it not worth it?
 
  #34  
Old 07-26-05, 01:37 PM
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dont mess with the govener. tie a string at the engine to whatever the throttle cable pulls on. so that u can have that extra umph at the end of a race ( pull the string for extremely wide open throttle). dont hold it for too long tho, it is hard on an engine.
 
  #35  
Old 07-27-05, 08:49 PM
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putting a string on the govenor and putting a string on the carb butterfly do the same exact thing the govenor is engine adjusted and it opens and closes the carb butterfly so even if your pulling on the carb you still pushing the govenor back
 
  #36  
Old 07-29-05, 07:09 PM
led-zeppelin
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so i shouldnt adjust it higher i should just use a string? and also what about wheels? if i want to go faster i need bigger but wont that make it very tipsy?
 
  #37  
Old 08-02-05, 12:02 PM
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I need to know where to find a Used Dana 6 speed tranny for a old mower. The Bearings were chewed out and The Pully Wobbles VERY BAD.
 
  #38  
Old 08-07-05, 07:20 PM
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if you are looking to go faster all the time you could just adjust the govenor to open up a little more but if your looking for sudden bursts of speed then i would go with the string idea but if possible make a gas pedal, i made mine out of a gopeds throttle cable works great. bigger tires will make you tipsy but even with little tires you will still be tipsy so the only way to eliminate this is to use wide tires and weild the front part where the body moves back and forth over the front tires, if you cant weild then but thick bolts connecting the metal bar to the frame if that doesnt work then there is only one more thing that i have found not to be the top idea to fix the problem, you take your tires and rims and get two extra rims bolt the tire and rim to the spare rim after mounting the first rim to the tranny kinda like a duely but only 1 tie on each side or you can make it a duely and put the two tires on but they have to be the same tall like you could use a 18x12x8 and a 18x6x8 but not a 16x12x8 and a 18x6x8 hope you understand and hope it helps
 
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Old 08-10-05, 02:56 AM
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i have a briggs and stratton, 2 cylinders, 16 horse power lawn mower. i am going to change the pulleys around.i have probably a 3.5" in the front and a 8 inch in the back. my mower wont shift though. can someone tell me how to fix it or will my pulllies make up for it. also people were talking about welding the front, what do i weld??? Lastly what should i do to reinforce my mower so if i go fast it wont brake. thanks.
 
  #40  
Old 08-11-05, 12:04 PM
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Question Go Fast?

I Have a 18 horsepower V-Twin and I dont know how to make it go fast. I already took the govener off and I have a direct hook up to the carb. do you think I should put a automatic throttle closing device?
 
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