how to make a riding lawn mower go fast
#1
how to make a riding lawn mower go fast
i have heard to get a front engine old murry, get the biggest motor you can get, get a 3 speed for short distance and 6 speed for long distance, weld the gears so u have spider gears, make a gas pedal, get the smallest pulley on the back and a pretty big pulley for the front, take the blade off, make a deck if possible out of aluminum and make it as thin as possible just to meet racing guidelines, or just use a grinder and do what u can to make it light weight, get a dirt bike exhaust and weld it to the block, get a performance air filter, get the biggest wheels you can get, weld the front bar to the middle of the frame, somehow make brakes i need ideas for that, must have kill switch, anymore ideas thanks? neeed good ideas
Last edited by go fast mower; 01-02-08 at 07:05 AM. Reason: miss spelling and bad grammer
#2
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Brakes? What do you need brakes for?
The exhaust pipe has to be tuned for the engine displacement.
Not just any pipe will work. If it isn't right it will hurt the performance.
Here's a thread at DIY:
http://forum.doityourself.com/images..._finallink.gif
The exhaust pipe has to be tuned for the engine displacement.
Not just any pipe will work. If it isn't right it will hurt the performance.
Here's a thread at DIY:
http://forum.doityourself.com/images..._finallink.gif
#6
no i have no disk brakes and to you one guy i am my own organization. i neeed to know the rules to the highly modified procircuit and everything else about racing i only know a very little
#7
ARMA rules http://www.golawnmowerracing.com/mod...download&cid=1
ULSMRA rules
http://www.letsmow.com/rulebook.asp
The frame you want will depend on the class you plan on running, if you are going to build it to a sanctioned group. They have wheelbase and configuration requirements that vary from class to class.
Many transaxles don't need the spiders welded to lock them, just add 2 more gears to the differential. No need to weld it and it's removable. You should consider just running a tranny/live axle setup instead of a transaxle. More gearing options, easy brake mounting, no need for a jackshaft when lowering.
Take a while and read over some of the sections at http://www.heymow.com you will learn quite a bit.
ULSMRA rules
http://www.letsmow.com/rulebook.asp
The frame you want will depend on the class you plan on running, if you are going to build it to a sanctioned group. They have wheelbase and configuration requirements that vary from class to class.
Many transaxles don't need the spiders welded to lock them, just add 2 more gears to the differential. No need to weld it and it's removable. You should consider just running a tranny/live axle setup instead of a transaxle. More gearing options, easy brake mounting, no need for a jackshaft when lowering.
Take a while and read over some of the sections at http://www.heymow.com you will learn quite a bit.
#9
Rear engine snappers
We run alot of the old rear engine snappers up here, the easy thing with them is you switch the gears around in the differential and your in excess of 50plus M.P.H Of course alot of other mods are done but have seen stockers clean the grass off of the mods, after all its experience that counts in the corners. Stay outta the hay bales man