Kawasaki 100 wont start

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  #1  
Old 03-16-09, 09:01 AM
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Kawasaki 100 wont start

Typical non motor cycle mechanic type of question.
We have a clean plug and good spark at the plug and fresh gas.
Now let me back up, this bike has been hard to start for the time we have had it (one year now). To get it started the first time of the day we used starting fluid, after that we could just kick it off with out the starting fluid. About two week ago we could not get it started at all, I found the choke holding plastic nut to be busted so I bought a rebuilt carb and no change, still will not start.
Please suggest a starting point.
 
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  #2  
Old 03-17-09, 10:12 PM
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It's probably the compression. I would test it to see what you have, but I would put a new set of rings in the picture. It would probably fix it.

But check the compression first.
 
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Old 03-22-09, 07:17 AM
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What about the reed valve?

What about the reed valve? Or the exhaust, or even something other than taking this engine apart? I have moved recently and can not locate my compression gage.
 
  #4  
Old 03-22-09, 07:34 AM
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A plugged exhaust causes a lot of performance problems, but unless its plugged really badly it won't cause the starting problems you're seeing. It will usually flatten out some of the rpm range or kill the idle.

The reed valve (if you have one in that bike) can cause a lot of problems, but not a cold start problem without the same problem later.

The first thing you always consider is the choking mechanism. If that is working you should be able to get it to start through the carburetor.

Another thing would a compression release or possibly something in the timing of the ignition.

What is the year and the complete model ID of your bike?
 
  #5  
Old 03-22-09, 08:57 AM
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this is a KX 100 2002, is all I know with out going to the shop and finding it on the bike.
Where would I find the compression release?
 

Last edited by daniel55; 03-22-09 at 08:59 AM. Reason: more information
  #6  
Old 03-22-09, 09:22 AM
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No compression release on that one, but it does have a reed valve. Try this.

When you are in a no start situation: shut off the fuel to the carburetor and drain the carburetor bowl completely. Then pull the plug and full throttle, no choke, kick it over about fifteen times. This will purge everything out of the crankcase and the cylinder head.

Then put a couple of table spoons of fuel/oil mix in the spark plug hole, let it sit for about ten seconds or so, kick it over a couple of times (no more). Put the plug back in and see if it fires and tries to start.

What you have done is take the carb out of the equation for the no start condition.

Post back with what you have.
 
  #7  
Old 03-31-09, 03:42 PM
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You say that you have fresh gas....is that in the tank or the carb? The gas in the carb will start to change in as little as a week. The gas in the tank if it was or is full is ok for a lot longer. Drain the gas in the carb and give it another shot.
 
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Old 04-01-09, 06:11 PM
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make sure you clean the carb thoroughly, soumds like the carb is plugged up, there are 3 small holes on the intake side of the carb, before the butterfly, make sure these are clear, those mean alot to these carbs
 
  #9  
Old 04-10-09, 09:56 AM
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Everone--Thank you

Thank you for your help, we ended up finding a compression gage and found 50psi of compression and have removed the head and cylinder to do a top on it. The rings were no longer floating and were stuck in the ring grove on the exhaust side.
I have measured the cylinder and found it to be 68.58mm. Would someone please tell me if this is standard or oversized?
I found looking through the exhaust port a butterfly part where a small amount of the housing is curling up is this something that will be reason to trash this cylinder or do you have any suggestions for this?
Do you have a best placeto purchase parts and do you suggest aftermarket or OEM engine parts?
 
  #10  
Old 04-10-09, 12:36 PM
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The piston, if oversized should be stamped on the top with the amount over.

I would have to see a picture of what you're talking about on what's curling up.

I would normally go with OEM, unless there's a huge price difference that would wreck your budget.
 
  #11  
Old 04-10-09, 01:02 PM
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to the shop

I am headed to the shop and have the cylinder inspected and machine work as needed. i bet I could do many other things while the people that know what to do take care of the cylinder.

Thanks again for your insight.
 
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