2003 Club car not moving

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  #1  
Old 11-10-15, 04:11 AM
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2003 Club car not moving

HI

My Club Car solenoid does not click and does not move at all. It use to forward then cut out especially if you accelerate fully or go up hills.

Mike
 
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  #2  
Old 11-10-15, 09:37 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

Do you have a test meter ? You'll need to get one if you don't have one.

First thing you need to check is the voltage out of the battery pack for 48vdc.
Then you need to check the voltage again where it connects to the solenoid.
They should be the same.

One corroded or loose battery terminal can cause all kinds of issues including the problem you're having there..
 
  #3  
Old 11-11-15, 12:56 AM
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HI

I have test there is 48 volts at both points. Have tightened and cleaned all connections. I did not include that before it cut out altogether cart worked fine in reverse.
 
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Old 11-11-15, 05:20 AM
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Here is the manual for your cart.

If your cart is the IQ model then check the tow switch. The cart will not run if it's in the tow position.

Easiest is to start following the path the current takes through the cart. So, start at the battery wires and follow them. Test at the end of the wires. Then test on the other side of anything they connect to to find where the power stops.

You haven't given much to go by so at this point your problem could be almost anything; ignition switch, forward reverse switch, accelerator sensor/switch, solenoid and motor controller. But since you said it does not "click" test those items upstream (between the batteries and solenoid) of the solenoid.
 
  #5  
Old 11-11-15, 09:40 AM
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I rechecked and and there is only 2v at solenoid. My partner said that when he put back the small connections on the solenoid he put them on incorrectly then there was a spark and that when the cart stopped working all together.
Something must of blown. I have connected all correctly put on ignition put in forward and reverse and nothing.
 
  #6  
Old 11-11-15, 09:49 AM
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I am new to the working of website, can you see my last post to PJmax
 
  #7  
Old 11-11-15, 09:53 AM
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Yes.... I can see all of your posts.

There may be a fuse in that line.
Do you have a wiring diagram there ? Is there one in the owners manual ?
Dane's link was an owners manual with no wiring diagram.
 
  #8  
Old 11-11-15, 09:58 AM
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I do have my cart parts list that has the diagram. do you perhaps know how to do test on controller etc
 
  #9  
Old 11-11-15, 10:39 AM
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Thanks Pilot Dane and PJmax for engaging regarding my problem. I have a good understanding with mechanical petrol/diesel workings but electric motors is new to me. My thought is, you can correct me if I am wrong, what would be the starting point that i should start from. I have established that the solenoid does not seem to get the same volts as the batteries. Batteries show 51 volts on meter. Solenoid registers 2 volts. That's all I have established with my limited knowledge. Unfortunately, I do not have a golf car specialist in my small town I live in to take it to.
 
  #10  
Old 11-11-15, 05:12 PM
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With the wiring diagram it will be easy to help you. I sent you a PM (private message) in regards to the diagram.
 
  #11  
Old 11-12-15, 05:38 AM
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Is your cart an IQ model? I think Club Car made three different types of electric carts then. One is 36 volt and the other two are 48.

Here is the diagram for an IQ cart.


Here is the diagram for a standard 48v cart.
 
  #12  
Old 11-12-15, 07:44 PM
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Nice diagrams! Almost big enough to be really useful. I'm surprised the board took them as they're pretty big files.

Anyway.... the setups are similar.

Look at the solenoid. Both will use a heavy red wire and a heavy yellow wire on large studs.
Put the negative meter lead on the heavy black wire that connects the battery to the controller.

You need to make this test as if you were actually going to move... a person on the seat if it has a seat sensor, key on, direction set, foot on the accelerator.

One solenoid has a yellow on one side and a red or white/black on the other side.
What are you getting on those two small terminals.

OR the other solenoid uses light blue and blue/white.
What are you getting on those two small terminals.
 
  #13  
Old 11-13-15, 01:10 AM
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The top one is the correct one. Thanks for sending
 
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Old 11-13-15, 01:19 AM
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Will do and send answer when I am at home later today.
 
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Old 11-13-15, 04:44 AM
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I forgot to mention that in Chrome you can right click on the wiring diagrams and select "open in new tab" and they are larger in size and much easier to read.
 
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Old 11-16-15, 06:38 AM
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Small one is light blue and blue/white. The reading is 48 volts on both when I test as above.
 
  #17  
Old 11-19-15, 04:01 AM
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Small one is light blue and blue/white. The reading is 48 volts on both when I test as above.
 
  #18  
Old 11-19-15, 05:20 AM
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Did the solenoid "click" when you turned the key? If you are getting power to the small blue/white solenoid wire the solenoid should engage and make the "click" sound your used to hearing. If not it's possible the solenoid is bad.

I disconnect/remove one end of the resistor that goes between the big lugs/wires on the solenoid. Then test with the meter from the lug where the yellow wire connects to the - side of a battery or other good ground source. When you are getting 48 volts on the little blue/white wire the solenoid should be engaged and you'll get 48 volts between the big yellow wire lug and ground indicating that the solenoid (switch) has closed (turned on). If not the solenoid is probably bad. While you've still got power on the little blue/white wire moderately tap on the can of the solenoid with a screwdriver handle. If the solenoid "clicks" or engages then it's a sign it needs to be replaced.

The solenoid is basically just an on/off switch designed to handle a lot of power. On the cart it is turning on/off the positive connection between the battery and controller & motor. Inside the solenoid is an electro magnet that mechanically closes the switch contacts. The blue/white wire is what sends current to energize the magnet and close the switch contacts which lets power flow between the two big wires. It's a mechanical switch and they do wear out. Sometimes tapping on it while it's energized will shake the stuck parts free and allow it to work at least temporarily. Luckily it's a cheap and easy to replace component.
 
  #19  
Old 11-20-15, 01:13 AM
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The solenoid did not click. I will follow instruction above and give feedback later today. Thanks
 
  #20  
Old 11-20-15, 08:58 AM
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I seem to be going backwards. I started over from the beginning and now have different readings. I could of done first test incorrectly.
Teats batteries - 51.4 volts
Ignition turned off - 1.2 volts on top big lugs, 3 volts on small lugs on solenoid
Ignition turned on - same
Ignition turned on, in forward and accelerator pedal on full - same volts.
I have retested this 3x over 2 hours and same reading come up. At no time was there a click at the solenoid.
I don't know if this will help, I had disconnected the batteries (Positive on battery) while I was away over the weekend, when I reconnected it made a big spark when reconnecting.
 
  #21  
Old 11-20-15, 09:44 AM
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The 51.4 volts is normal and is the correct voltage for a 48 volt bank of batteries. 51.4 just means your batteries are fully charged, though 50.8 or 50.9 is what I would expect to see.

Here is a page that goes through testing a golf cart solenoid. The instructions start about half way down the page.

Since you are not getting power to the small lugs on the solenoid then your problem is likely elsewhere but if you had 48 volts there before and the solenoid didn't "click" then it may still be a problem. My big concern is your earlier post where you mentioned that your partner had wires loose and connected them wrong. Seeing a small spark can be normal but a big spark is not.

So, what was the original problem that caused your partner to be messing with the solenoid? What other "fixes" or work has been done?
 
  #22  
Old 11-24-15, 10:38 AM
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Did the test as link and nothing. All reading as previous post of mine. There does not seem to be any voltage getting to the solenoid.
No other fixes done. He just replaced the two small lugs back to front.
The original problem was that in forward the cart kept cutting out (there was a clicking sound then cart cuts out) but in reverse there was no problem. Batteries are only 2 years old and charge holding fine through round of golf.
 
  #23  
Old 11-24-15, 01:37 PM
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You've got a difficult problem to tackle without the proper scanner. There are many things that can cause it to "cut out" or go into limp mode when driving.

Without 48v+ getting to the two lugs on the solenoid it rules out a simple bad solenoid as the main problem. It (the solenoid) can still be bad but that's the least of your problems. The computer can/will turn off power to the solenoid if it senses a fault. That fault can be anywhere from a short, bad sensor in the motor, motor controller fault...

Here are the instructions to reset the computer. It won't fix whatever is broken but it might (keep your fingers crossed) get to a point where you can do more diagnosing if your heart is really into digging deep. It may be a good time to consider taking it to a shop that has the scan tool.

Not that it helps, but here is the IQ scan tool. It will give you an idea of what errors can cause the cart to stop working.
 
  #24  
Old 11-24-15, 09:58 PM
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You've got 48v on both sides of the solenoid. That tells us the solenoid is ok. When the key is turned on..... 48v is applied to the light blue wire. The blue/white picks up the controlled ground to close the solenoid from the speed controller.

I have a feeling that your previous problem had nothing to do with the solenoid.
I also have a feeling your friend touched the blue/white wire to the heavy + terminal on the solenoid burning open the control circuit inside the controller.

At this point in time....if you don't have the complete wiring guide (service manual) with voltages at the control modules.... you've reached a dead end and must seek a professional servicing agent.
 
  #25  
Old 11-25-15, 04:49 AM
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I thought his later tests he was not getting power to the solenoid. Then as I go back and re-read he only said he did a test and says "same volts". But when I look more closely he said 51.4, 1.2 and 3 volts so who knows. Then more recently he posted "Did the test as link and nothing"??? Did what test?????
 
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