CBRF4: battery overworked/charging problems

Reply

  #1  
Old 05-16-18, 06:18 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
CBRF4: battery overworked/charging problems

cbrf4, battery reading 12.8 volts, bike starts right up, battery reading 14.3 volts while running, go for a 15 minute drive and the bike sputters and dies. try to start the bike and it acts as if the battery is dead, you can hear the starter attempt to start the bike you know the "erraarr errrarr errrarr noise" oh dang battery is dead.. wait like 10 minutes and the bike will start right back up again. its a cheap "power sonic" battery. can it just not handle the load and is over heating? is that a thing?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 05-16-18, 07:16 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,510
Received 1,030 Votes on 956 Posts
Doubtful it's overheating. You can feel it to verify that. 14.3v is good for charging.
Check the voltage at the battery when cranking, If it drops well below 11v it's had it.
Also make sure the battery connections are clean.
 
  #3  
Old 05-17-18, 03:06 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Its a new battery, cold start it cranks fine no problem. after the bike has been running for awhile it will die and putter to a stop. my firt thought was a bad ground but everything is tight. everything is clean. give it 10 minutes to "collect" itself and it will start right back up.
 
  #4  
Old 05-17-18, 08:05 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
this time I brought my volt meter with me, the bike started to sputter and died after the cooling fan came on. got right off the bike and tested the battery, it was reading 12.2 volts but about every 5 seconds climbed a .01 volt so after about a minute it was 12.3 another minute 12.4 and so on. until it finally stopped at 12.9, this is with bike off and no charger on the battery, I have never seen anything like it. any ideas?
 
  #5  
Old 05-17-18, 07:00 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
if anyone else reads this and cares to know, its the stator. its on its way out so when the bike gets warm it stops working putting a strain on the battery and killing the bike. bike cools and the stator will work again.
 
  #6  
Old 05-17-18, 07:53 PM
G
Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hamilton County, Ohio
Posts: 4,296
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Glad you found the problem. Thanks for the input. It may elp others in the future.
 
  #7  
Old 05-17-18, 09:18 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,119
Received 3 Votes on 3 Posts
I was going to say a weak diode in the alternator...prob the same issue since the actual stator is just wound wires...yes?
 
  #8  
Old 05-18-18, 09:49 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
yes, wound wires. which I wish I knew how to re wind but at least its a honda and it was fairly cheap.
 
  #9  
Old 05-24-18, 07:55 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
**UPDATE**

So now i have a new stator, R&R and a new Yuasa battery. the one I had before was a cheaper chinese battery from Ebay I went and bought a name brand one just to be sure today. I ran the stator test and R&R test both are good and most likely didnt need replaced (arghhh) and I checked all connections from the stator to the R&R then the R&R to the battery and ground and everything was tight and corrosion free. This is probably why I got the bike so cheap.... the ***** **** *** knew this and didnt tell me. I dont know what else to do.

to me it seams like the bike is drawing more amps than the stator can keep up with, possibly a short in the harness? I actually drove the bike home when I first bought it almost an hour and a half drive just fine. only difference is it was 95% highway and a steady 6k rpms. now that I have plates and insurance its allot of 12k rpm drives that will last about 15 minutes.
 
  #10  
Old 05-25-18, 09:31 AM
F
Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: United States
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
How long did you measure the battery voltage at 14V? Did you see any drop in voltage? Have you attempted to measure the current leakage on the battery? It shouldn't be any higher than about 1.2mA when you connect the multimeter inline with the battery. Measure while the bike is off.
 
  #11  
Old 05-25-18, 07:56 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
it will measure anywhere between 14.2-14.5 for about 15 min at idle, then will slowly drop to high 13s then low 13s then finally the bike will die because the battery is to low.
 
  #12  
Old 06-09-18, 07:55 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
motorcycle short

I already had some sort of a thread going for this but people stopped responding and I have new info for it. so long story short, my motorcycles charging systems once hot appears as if its not working, it goes from charging at 14.5v down to 13 and lower once the bike is hot so i first thought the charging system was dead and I replaced stator, R&R and the battery. ran the bike and everything was the same, good 14.5 volts until hot and it will slowly creep down to 13 or lower so my thought is maybe there is a dead short once hot and the short is putting to much of a draw on the charging system making it appear to be weak. any thoughts?
 
  #13  
Old 06-09-18, 09:25 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,510
Received 1,030 Votes on 956 Posts
Threads combined..........

We keep like posts combined in one thread otherwise the same exact questions get asked again causing more delays.

It can't be a short or you'd have smoke or a fire or melted wiring. A dead short means 0 volts.
 
  #14  
Old 06-10-18, 07:59 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Okay maybe not a short buy could there be something else causing to much of a draw that the charging system can keep up with, even once the bike is hot and im only getting 13 volts I still get 40 volts AC between each phase . is it possible to get get results on the stator and it still not charge right? Yesterday it was only 60 degrees outside and I was driving all highway. I made a 30 min trip okay but once I got back home and let it warm up during idle the voltage dropped as far as 12.6 volts. Checked the 3 phases and they were still putting out 40 volts at 3k rpms, someone had told me I could have a bad ignition switch, how can I go about checking that? Someone has to have some sort of idea. I'm at the point I'm ready to send some one $50 through PayPal for an hour of their time.
 
  #15  
Old 06-10-18, 01:05 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,510
Received 1,030 Votes on 956 Posts
Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike ?
That is the first and most important step. With that I can help you better.
 
  #16  
Old 06-10-18, 02:36 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
this is the one i have been using

http://irelandnews.co/wp-content/upl...ng-diagram.jpg
 
  #17  
Old 09-01-18, 09:57 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
there is no drain with the bike off, only running, I have a meter that will read up to 400 amps DC but the wires are only 16 gauge, is that enough to put between ground and the negative terminal? or is there any other way to measure draw while bike is running? sure the stator is putting out the correct amount of voltage but how many amps should it be putting out?
 
  #18  
Old 09-02-18, 08:51 AM
A
Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 587
Received 17 Votes on 16 Posts
have you tried another regulator?, some regulators may need to be grounded not sure if this one does but would probably run a ground wire to it to see if there is a difference.
 
  #19  
Old 09-02-18, 09:43 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,510
Received 1,030 Votes on 956 Posts
I agree on the grounded regulator. This is a very simple charging circuit. It's a three phase alternator connected directly to the regulator assembly. The G wire is the bike ground and the RW wire goes directly from the regulator to the start relay where it's directly connected to the battery via a 30A fuse. Measuring the current on the R/W wire is the charging current. I don't imagine seeing much better than 10A on this line.

Name:  mc.JPG
Views: 96
Size:  52.4 KB

In the diagram..... looking at the starting relay there are four wires of interest.
Y/R = push to start switch
G/R = power to acc
R = power to acc.
R/W = charging line

It's tough to follow a small schematic but it looks like the R and G/R lines supply power to all the bikes accessories. These are the two lines you'd need to measure to see load from the battery/charging circuit. Any current measured on those two wires is current or load FROM the battery/charger.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-02-18 at 10:05 AM.
  #20  
Old 09-03-18, 11:54 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 197
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The R&R is also mounted directly to the frame AND I have another ground tied right into the connector and going straight to the battery because one of my first thoughts was a bad R&R ground. obviously this is not the case. but last night while riding I stumbled upon another symptom, my bike started to bog and eventually died, I actually had this problem before on a different bike and it was a plugged gas tank vent but I check that out and it has no fuel problems so im thinking this problem was caused by whatever is causing the no start problem. the bike refused to start and the battery was reading 12.43 volts. I tried using a jump box and was still only getting a weak very weak turn over but not fast enough to start and dash lights fading. so i let the bike sit like I usually have done for about 20 minutes, bike has now cooled and battery STILL reading 12.43 volts and it fired right up. no struggle, no choke no help, first try no problem. so heat is definitely a factor here. so maybe I never had a charging problem and all along its a bad starter not wanting to work when hot? or is it a bad starter relay but it doesnt get hot so... idk
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question