LED Headlight Fuse
#1
Member
Thread Starter
LED Headlight Fuse
I just ordered a set of 12 volt LED headlights from Amazon for my Cushman Golfster.. They had a push pull switch for it too, but I will have to wire it myself. I thought it might be a good idea to put a fuse in the line but not sure what amperage fuse size to put in an in line holder. The lights will be powered off the key switch accessory tab, supplied from a Marine sized 12 volt battery charged with an automotive alternator.
#2
Member
Add the power of each led light, then divide by 12. Use that number to get the closest (larger) fuse value available.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Ok Bob, there are two 18 watt each LED light brackets for a total of 36 watts. Using a formula for converting watts to amps (as fuses are usually rated in amps) on Google I came up with 3 amps being used in the line. I can protect that with a 5 amp fuse, correct?
#4
Correct..... 36watts @ 12v = 3A.
A five amp fuse should be ok.
A 7.5A would be ok too.
Your mostly protecting the wiring so the fuse should be near the supply battery.
A five amp fuse should be ok.
A 7.5A would be ok too.
Your mostly protecting the wiring so the fuse should be near the supply battery.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Pete. The Battery is in the back of the vehicle under a truck bed, but the hot line from the battery snakes up front to the solenoid on the firewall. I can easily attach the wire from the push pull switch there, and put the fuse holder into the line after the switch and then go to the lights.
#6
That's fine but remember a battery like that has almost unlimited power and the wiring must be protected.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Well it would be just as easy to put the fuse into the wire just BEFORE it connects to the push pull switch. What do you think?
#8
Member
As PJ mentioned you need to protect the new wire. So put the fuse as close to the power source as possible. i.e. it sounds as if your supplying the power to a wire attached to the solenoid (which then feeds to an on/off switch and onto the light). If this is the case then this "new" line is the one that needs to be protected and so the fuse should be close to the solenoid.
I'm assuming this is a main feed (heavy gauge) to the solenoid which feeds other items, not an individual wire for your new lights only.
but the hot line from the battery snakes up front to the solenoid on the firewall
#9
Group Moderator
I put fuses right at the battery with an inline fuse holder. You want it as close to the power source as possible so it can do it's job protecting the wiring.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
10-4 on all of the above. The fuse protection for the new line will be just where the new wire attaches to the "Heavy guage" wire from the battery that attaches to the solenoid. I have an old Simplicity Landlord tractor that has a dash mounted headlight switch that sends power out to two old style filament headlights that has no fuse in it at all. There IS a 5amp fuse in a holder that is in the system that protects a LOT of wire around there so I guess they figured that would protect the headlight system too. (So far it has lol) Thanks for the suggestions! New lights holders fuses and holders are on the way! No more chasing coyotes in the dark!
#12
Member
Thread Starter
LIghts are operational. A little fun getting the switch mounted, but I now own the night! (around here anyway)
WML13
voted this post useful.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Pete! I really give all the credit to my moderators and fellow posters who have great suggestions!