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Engine Question


edsjr's Avatar
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08-22-02, 09:14 PM   #1  
5hp hor briggs with spline need pulley attached

I have a snowblower motor with a 5hp briggs that is in brand new condition. I have converted it to electronic ignition and it runs perfectly. I want to put it on my tiller that had almost the exact same motor until my buddy ran it out of oil.

the snowblower motor has a shorter shaft and a spline because it ran a gear case. I need to somehow make the shaft longer so I can put a pulley on it to run the tiller. I have the shaft out of the old motor and it wasnt damage bad at all in the previous blowup. As a matter of fact, I rebuilt the motor but broke the cam putting it back together (beer was not a good helper in this project).

what is my best bet and if I would be best to swap shafts, how do you get the flywheel off of these things?

Thanks

 
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cheese's Avatar
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08-22-02, 09:42 PM   #2  
Hello edsjr!

If the shaft is the same, in all dimensions as the old one, and the old shaft isn't scarred or otherwise damaged, then I would swap shafts. Make sure the journals meet the minimum diameter measurements or better. If both engines are 5hp briggs flathead horizontal engines, then the cranks are most likely inter-changeable. The rod journal should be completely smooth with no grooves or ridges.

To remove the flywheel, you need a starter clutch removal tool...should be available at your lawn mower repair shop, or a well-stocked large hardware store. You will then need a flywheel puller to properly remove the flywheel. A harmonic balancer puller will also work just as well. These can be rented for free at Autozone. You pay the tools price as a deposit, then you get it back when you return the tool. Let us know if we can further help, and keep us posted!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
edsjr's Avatar
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08-23-02, 04:26 AM   #3  
cool............the numbers on the motor are the same with the exception of just the last couple, which designate whether the motor was setup for a pulley or a gear box.

the shaft as a couple little marks in it but I should be able to polish it with some emery cloth

thanks

 
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08-23-02, 06:01 AM   #4  
mikejmerritt
edsjr, all is pretty well covered here but thought I would throw the max a crank can be worn and still be serviceable. I do this because the engine the donor crank is from was run without oil. If you can get your hands on a micrometer or caliper check the journal and anything under .995 would be pushing it. If both of the engines are 5HP theres no doubt the cranks will interchange. Also, you probably want to remove any ridge at the top of the cylinder....Mike

 
edsjr's Avatar
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08-23-02, 06:13 AM   #5  
the motor that was ran without oil just lost the rod bearing cap, it still ran but made noise. I used a caliper on the cylinder and it was almost at factory spec. The new motor looks like it has very little usage so I probably wont mess with taking the head off..............I imagine I can just open the case and unbolt the bearing cap and get the crank out.

 
cheese's Avatar
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08-23-02, 09:10 PM   #6  
Yep, you can do it that way. Good luck with it! Let us know if we can help! Don't forget to torque the cap bolts!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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