Magnet problem?

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  #1  
Old 09-20-02, 05:15 PM
Omega
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Magnet problem?

Machine is a Craftsman 17" 24 hp brushwacker. The engine runs fine, but the metal cutting blade doesn't turn. All connections seem to be strong, and no parts are broken or stripped as far as I can tell. It appears to me (I am very much an amateur) that the blade is powered by a magnet that spins inside a metal cylinder that looks a little like a funnel. When the magnet spins, the cylinder is pulled around with it causing the blade to spin. Since the engine runs well and I can't find any bad connections, is it possible that the magnet has become demagnetized or too weak to drive the blade? If so, is there any way to remagnetize it? If not, what else could be wrong?

thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 09-20-02, 08:15 PM
Fisher
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Post your model numbers so we can go to the Sear's website
to see what you have.
fish
 
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Old 09-21-02, 08:19 AM
Omega
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Model number is 358.795050. Other numbers that might mean something to you are Serial 00119n400231 and Family ypwes.0214lt:em. Also, it says it's 24 cc on the handle, but on the sticker with the model number etc it says 25 cc.
I've attached a picture of the parts I'm talking about. Hope it helps.
 
  #4  
Old 09-21-02, 08:29 AM
Omega
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I don't think the picture came through. Let's see if you can use the link below. It appears to be a model very similar if not the same as the one I have.


http://www.sears.com/sr/product/deta...&bidsite=CRAFT
 
  #5  
Old 09-21-02, 11:22 AM
J A Boggan
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You can also go to http://www3.sears.com/ and put in your model number and get three different views.
 
  #6  
Old 09-21-02, 03:07 PM
mikejmerritt
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Omega, three things could be wrong that would let the engine run freely and yield no action at the cutting head. If the unit has a clutch (before if at idle no cutting head action until you throttle) it could have worn shoes or a worn bell housing, the drive line or wire in the shaft is stripped on either end or broken or the gear head (part at the bottom of the shaft that turns down to the blade) is stripped. The drive line and gear head are easily replaced by the DIY'er but the clutch problem could be a bit trickier but can be overcome with a bit of help from the folks here....Mike
 
  #7  
Old 09-21-02, 09:27 PM
Omega
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The funnel-shaped part that I was talking about is at the top of the long shaft that goes down to the blade. When I turn it manually the blade turns. That tells me that there's nothing on the shaft that's stripped or is slipping. It also tells me that the gear head is ok.
If you're right, that leaves the clutch. (Again, I'm still at about the equivalent of Small Engine Repair 101, so please forgive me.) The blade doesn't turn at all, either at idle speed or full throttle. How can I tell whether it has a clutch or not? If it does, can you give me the basics on where to begin looking for worn shoes or bell housing?
 
  #8  
Old 09-22-02, 11:30 AM
mikejmerritt
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I pulled up the Sears site and wasn't able to get a clear idea of what the funnel shaped thing you refer to is that can be turned. Most shafts go into the engine housing and from there are out of site. If your trimmer has no clutch (straight drive) when all was well with your trimmer you pull the starter rope the blade would turn and would always turn while the engine was running. If you have a clutch when the engine is at idle the blade doesn't turn. When you apply throttle the blade begins to turn. To find the clutch if it has one.....from the gearhead is a driveline or wire inside the shaft that runs into the engine. That drive line will fit into the clutch bell and inside the clutch bell is the clutch which is attached to the engine crankshaft. Down in the square hole that the drive line fits into there is most often an allen or phillips head screw that will allow you to remove the clutch bell. At this point you will be looking at the clutch shoes. This shoe assembly will thread/screw on to the engine crankshaft. To remove it one must find a way to keep the engine from turning while force is used on the shoe assembly. Most of these clutch bells run on bearings which need to be checked. If your machine has no clutch given what you say in your last post the sqaure hole on the front of the engine or the square end of the drive line is stripped and that is about all it could be. I hope I havn't confused you and we'll hang in here with you until you have what you need to know. Do know that removal of the clutch bell sometimes is impossible even for the pro at a shop with all of the neat tools.....Mike
 
  #9  
Old 09-22-02, 09:59 PM
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Most of the time when you problem happens, It is just due to the shaft slipping away from the engine enough that the drive shaft comes out of the clutch bell or crankshaft end. Try loosening the screws that hold the shaft in place, then push the shaft toward the engine while turning the blade. If it moves in toward the engine a bit, that probably was your problem. Then tighten the screws good and go!

Let us know!
 
  #10  
Old 09-23-02, 06:04 AM
mikejmerritt
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Think I ought to delete my last diatribe in this thread because cheese probably has the cure in his last post here. Sometimes you really can't see the forest for the trees.....Good luck....Mike
 
  #11  
Old 09-23-02, 06:47 PM
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LOL Mike! Happens to me all the time. Take care!
 
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