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Chainsaw fuel


dyrgirl2's Avatar
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09-23-02, 02:18 PM   #1  
dyrgirl2
Chainsaw fuel

Hi, Hope there's someone on line that can tell me the recommended gas/oil mixture for my chainsaw. It's a McCullough 35 cc. Somebody said 32:1, is this correct?

 
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09-23-02, 09:37 PM   #2  
Try this for clean performance

Hi dyrgirl2,

At one time the wisdom of the day told us things like the more oil the better or it's got to smoke so much toy can't see the woods for the smoke.

I have a Makita 54cc Chain saw that I run at 100 to 1. Now I know it won't smoke & it burns almost a clean as a 4 cycle & that 4 stroke burns oil by leaking past the rings.

Why do we use oil in a 2 cycle? Because we need to lubricate the moving parts. Since there is no oil sump( holding tank) To pump oil around the moving parts we put it in the oil.

Just how much oil is what you asked so I would say get some Mobil Synthetic 2 cycle oil & mix it to 50 to 1. That way you will provide good lubrication to the moving parts & not foul your sparkplug + you engine will burn cooler & it will last longer.

Oh the most important reason is so we can keep the More Oil pour the oil to her Captian croud happy. They once sais 16 to one & carried a pocketful of spark plugs with them just to get the job done.

Then someone said let's cut down on the oil. Tar & Feathers? Allmost but they bought it so they told you 32 to one.
When you mix it at 50 to one there will be little or no smoke & you won't have to change your spark plugs all summer. But I don't think you will be tared & feathered LOL.

I'm trying to be funny, but not at your expense, but at all those who should by 2002 know how a 2 cycle engine works.

I started racing 2 cycle MotoCross back in the early 70s & we used 2 cycles from overseas mostly & it was in the early days of high performance that we learned how far we could push this oil in the gas thing.

Adding oil to gas takes the kick out of gas so the less oil you have to burn to remove it from the engine the cleaner it will stay & more power your engine will have. To understand what happens you must go into how it works it's so easy.

A 2 cycle is closed at the top and bottom unlike the 4 cycle that has open spaces all inside & pumps the oil to the places that a 2 cycle gets oil with oil vapor after hitting say the hot crankshaft and separeting from the gasoline that goes into a vapor to be burned up.

So you now see that the oil in your fuel has to seprate from the gas inorder to lubricate the moving parts & the gasoline & oil vapor go op top where the spark plug start them burning.

The point then it seems is that if you use just enough oil in your gas to get the job done then the oil will be well vaporized & burn away with the gas leaving no carbon buildup no wet gooy black mess under your piston and chamber where the fuel first comes in.

When I started using 100 to 1 was back in the early 70s so this is not a new idea. It gave us faster engines clean pistons & rings + cooler running engines becaurs we were not trying to compress an oil the excess that was mixed with the fuel. You have pulled up next to a diesel car & they sound like they are comming apart well that is the samething that happens to a 2 cycle when you use to much oil. It diesels or compresses a liquid not vapor & gets so hot it can fire it's own mix of air & fuel without a spark plug.

You asked a simple question & you get War & Peace.

Research & write e-mails to the Techs at Mobil.com ask them to tell you why it is better to run a lighter mix of oil to gas.

As a young Motorcycle Mechanic (AKA known as support your race bike at cost) the #1 problem we had when a customer brought his 2 cycle in was too much oil in the fuel. Then the Motorcycle companies came out with yama lube automatic mixing of the oil by having a tank the rider filled with oil and his gas tank has pure gasoline.

The Japanese showed us at mini schools we went to how we could set the injection systems down to pure gas at idle and about a 50 to 60 to 1 ratio. The riders went nuts thinking that because they weren't leaving smoke trails down the road they were going to blow their engines.

After about 6 mos we had riders coming in saying how much faster they were running & how clean their spark plugs were etc.

My son bought a new weed whip that said to run it at 16 to 1 & he did even though I told him that would make a mess. New, Teenager step back and watch. He got it out mixed his fuel & took of in search of some grass. About 1 hour later he came rushing into the house covered with oil spray from head to toe yelling about how that &%$#@* covered him with oil.

He called the service department the next day & told them he thought they were wrong and his Dad ran his 2 cycles on much less oil. They told him if he did not run the 16 to 1 the warranty would be no good.

This is the moment every parent lives for, next day he's out weeding again only there's no smoke Hummm. Later I asked how is your new weed eater working? Great I mixed it 50 to 1 & it works great.

So much for calling the factory to talk sense into them. He did listen I thought Ahhhh that feels good, teens know more than we do you know.

I get the Mobil Synthetic 2 cycle oil at Auto Zone one of the many auto parts chains in a 1/2 pint bottle. Only mix up your fuel in a 1 gallon container and try not to let it sit for over a week. Try to use it up.

You are a Do It Yourselfer, someone told you 32 to1 and you asked again. So now go prove me wrong or right by doing some research at the Mobil oil site. I have been running a 100 to one mix for Makita because they will give me a brand new saw if it fails so at this time with an oil I never raced with once I trust Mobil when they say that their oil is great at 100 to1.

So you can understand that I cannot say ok go ahead use 100 to 1 even though the Makita manual says you can with Makita Synthetic 2 cycle oil. Only you can't get it in the USA, so I am a guinia Pig with a new saw If mobile fails us. Two years down 1 to go & I think the Norm will be somewhere from 75 to 100 to1 for all two strokes.

Marturo

 
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09-24-02, 09:12 AM   #3  
dyrgirl2
War & Peace

Thanks for the book Marturo! Couldn't put it down. Lots of applauding.

 
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09-24-02, 09:43 AM   #4  
A short note.

Hi dyrgirl2

So little time so much to say.

Thanks & I hope you can find the Mobil 2 cycle synthetic oil, although any good brand of syntheyic, mix in gas type 2 cycle oil will work.

Talk to you later

Marturo

 
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09-30-02, 08:51 PM   #5  
alumtuna
couldnot resist the force

so when are the cliff notes (for the ADD tuna) coming out?
JK

 
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10-01-02, 04:44 AM   #6  
dyrgirl2,

Here's the easiest thing to do: buy a one gallon tank for your two cycle use only. Pour in one of those small 2 cycle containers(3.2 oz) of oil. I use this same one gal tank mix for my Mac saw, Ryobi brush/weedeater, and Homelite back-pak leaf blower.
No measuring, no fuss.

fred

 
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10-02-02, 05:41 AM   #7  
mikejmerritt
The Mac calls for 3.2 ounces in a gallon of gas yielding 40:1. The engine runs well and clean on 50:1 which is 2.6 ounces. I havn't done the 100:1 trick with the synthetic yet but will soon and have full faith it will be fine..... Mike

 
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07-16-03, 04:13 AM   #8  
MurphD
Hi everyone!

I'm new to this BB and found it through a search for information on 2 cycle oils. I have invested in some of echo's best equipment and want to make it last as long as possible. I am going to try the mobil mixed at 100:1 and see how they run.

My only question is, why must I use all of the gas/oil mix within a week? Previously, I have used fuel mixtures that had been mixed for many months. Please let me know the reasoning behind this so I will know if there is anything I might need to do to my equipment due to my previous use of old fuel/oil mixtures.

Thanks,
Murphy

 
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07-16-03, 09:11 AM   #9  
Joe_F
Fuel will go stale if unused for a long period of time. It may be so bad it won't fire anymore or simply gum up the works.

It is the reason you drain your fuel tanks when storing equipment for the winter/summer or periods of non use.

 
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07-16-03, 03:35 PM   #10  
"It is the reason you drain your fuel tanks when storing equipment for the winter/summer or periods of non use."

I'm supposed to drain my fuel tanks?? Uh Oh.
Thank goodness I moved from the cold Buckeye to VA. It's a much shorter winter - the gas doesn't get old here. And per my above post, all my machines get the same mix from one tank.
Just kinddin' Joe.

fred

 
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07-17-03, 03:22 AM   #11  
MurphD
Thanks for the replies. Luckily, I have not had any problems using fuel that has been stored for long periods of time. I have never drained any fuel since I always use a stabilizer. Thought that was all I needed to do.

What I was really concerned about was the fact that marturo was speaking of using the synthetic oil when the statement was made about using all the fuel up in one week. Is this time period so short because the synthetic oil is used?

Thanks for the help

 
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07-17-03, 06:07 AM   #12  
Joe_F
Fred:

I know . But here in the Northeast, you have to. My Murray/Craftsman snowblowers will sit 9 months out of the year and stale fuel will waste the carburetor. Same with the lawn mowers over the winter time. I store all my equipment inside the shed and give it a good polishing/waxing before storage

 
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07-17-03, 08:22 AM   #13  
cweaver73
gas stablizer added to oil

I use the 3.2 oz stihl brand oil and it has an additive that keeps fuel fresh. I do drain my weed-eater tanks over winter, but keep my chain saw around year round , don;t use it much (sometimes go 3-4 months between use) and haven't had any problems with stale gas fouling up my engine.

 
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07-17-03, 01:04 PM   #14  
Geeeeez,
I'm not waxing either!
Maybe I need to spend less time on the LInks??

fred

 
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07-18-03, 04:50 AM   #15  
MurphD
Thanks guys!

Just one more ? and I'll leave you alone regarding this situation. What grade gasoline is best to mix with the oil? The local shop said premium, but I'd really like to get your input on this.

Thanks,
Murphy

 
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07-18-03, 05:13 AM   #16  
Standard 87 octane is fine, it's probably what your book recommends.
fred

 
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07-18-03, 05:15 AM   #17  
My Two Cents

Hello: Murphy

In my Opinion, it does not mater what gasoline grade is used. Never found any problems with regular. But than again, while I was in the small engine repair trade, all we ever got in the shop was used machines in for some type of repair not related to fuel types causing problems, etc.

Premium grades offer more anti knock and anti run on chemicals. Some engines do require these added chemicals while others will not notice the differences.

Engine compression and general condition also plays a part in how well an engine will run on what fuel grade. For a personal used chainsaw, use the best fuel grade you can find.

Personally used machines, those used around homes and small ranches, etc in general do not get used like those in commerical usage. Commerically used machines run all day and are used daily for many hours.

In commerical applications is when extra care in fuel grades plays a more significate roll in engine operation, performance and longevity.

Regards.
Web Site Host & Small Engine Forum Moderator. "Accurate Power Equipment." Small Engine Diagnostics Services & Repair.

 
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