Engine Questions

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  #1  
Old 10-04-02, 05:33 AM
J A Boggan
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Question Straighting crankshafts

I was told (several years ago at a small engine class), that straighting crankshafts could possibly bring on law suites. Do any of you have an opinion on this?
 
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  #2  
Old 10-04-02, 08:12 AM
dave4.3
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I paid 30 bucks CND yesterday to have one straightened on a B&S 3.5hp Classic. All the shops around here are willing to straighten it.

I'm taking a small engine course at night right now.
 
  #3  
Old 10-06-02, 02:18 PM
J A Boggan
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There was a pretty good discussion on this topic in another forum.
The main opinion was to stay away from crankshaft straightening.
The main concern was that when a crank is straighted, it weakens the shaft. Afterwards, when running at full speed, the intertia of the blade 'can' cause the shaft to break. There were a couple cases where this happened.
 
  #4  
Old 10-09-02, 02:27 AM
J A Boggan
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Question air pre-cleaner oiling

Would someone mind explaining how much oil on a pre-cleaner (air) is enough. The instructions say to "lightly saturate" the foam. Does this mean to pretty well soak the foam and then wring it out? It seems that, for it to work proper, it would need to be everywhere in the foam pre-cleaner. Also, if its oiled pretty thoroughly, wont that restrict air flow?
 
  #5  
Old 10-09-02, 07:15 AM
Joe_F
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The oil of course suspends the dirt, but too much will probably attract more dirt .

What I do is thoroughly clean the old filter. Then I pour some oil onto the filter. I squish it in there. I would say so long as it is not pouring/squeezing out of the filter, it's ok.

I don't think it's too critical, otherwise they would specify how many ounces of oil they want.
 
  #6  
Old 10-09-02, 12:10 PM
J A Boggan
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JOE_F,
Thanks for the reply and information.
 
  #7  
Old 10-09-02, 11:14 PM
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Right...it's not critical. Saturate it, squeeze out what you can, then install it. The main thing to worry about when considering air restriction is that you don't want the pre-cleaner so oily that the oil bleeds into the paper pleats of the filter element itself. If this paper element gets oily, you will have problems.
 
  #8  
Old 10-10-02, 06:23 PM
J A Boggan
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Question Starter bendix problems

I'm talking about a starter off of a Kohler engine; model MV18S,
spec# 58560. The starter spins the bendix up to engage the flywheel, then the motor keeps running without turning the gear (thats engaged with the flywheel). I've taken the bendix apart and it seems to me, that the friction part (right under the gear) may be worn enough to let the bottom part screw upward enough to come off the threads on the starter shaft. If so, do I need to replace the whole bendix unit?
 
  #9  
Old 10-10-02, 08:48 PM
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Most likely the rubber on the friction part you described is rubbed off and slipping. It shouldn't allow it to come so far up the armature shaft that it comes off of the gears. It just slips. Sometimes I see them with the rubber completely gone from under the gear. As far as I know, the seperate parts can't be bought seperately. Buy the whole bendix and make sure it comes with ALL the parts. Some of the "bendix kits" don't come with the gear and bendix...just the spring, retainer, and such. Be prepared to spend a bit!
 
  #10  
Old 10-11-02, 02:12 PM
J A Boggan
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Question Exhaust bolts

Does anyone know a way to remove exhaust bolts or nuts that seem to be galleded (excuse the spelling) or seized. Is there anything that can be put on them, when re-installing them, to help prevent this in the future.
 
  #11  
Old 10-11-02, 02:29 PM
dave4.3
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Kano could loosen them for you but I'll bet you have to drill them out then tap new holes.
 
  #12  
Old 10-11-02, 07:49 PM
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I agree...Kano oil or PB blaster might help get them out. Then you'll want to check and repair the threads in the block if necessary. Usually they come out fairly easily, and I don't use anything to keep them from sticking. If I do run into one that is tight, I crank up the engine and let it get hot. That usually make the bolt come out much easier.
 
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