Flywheel Removal

I've been hacking at this MTD Tecumseh Vector VLV-55 Synergy for a while & a found the problem ... thanks to tons of reply's from you guys. There's clearly more than one piece in there, from topside view. Unfortunately, flywheel removal seems like a touchy/feely operation. I'd rather not post the, "where can you find flywheels" post, so here's the question.

Is there any way to remove the flywheel without a special tool (flywheel puller, I presume)? I've WD-40'd the shaft all day & am using a small pry bar, but that thing won't budge. Should I go thru the whole can of WD-40, then try again?

 

while prying you will need to hit the crank shaft with a fairly big hammer to jar the flywheel loose, but you dont want to damage the shaft while you are hitting it. I usually put the nutt back on, but not screw it all the way down. leave a little space between the bottom of the nutt and top of the flywheel, drop a socket over the nutt make sure the socket bottoms out on the nutt and does not touch the flywheel either . while prying hit the socket with big hammer, it should pop loose, never ever, never ever hit the flywheel directly with any thing, you can break it easy this way or crack it and not know it, then while the engine is running the flywheel will just same as explode and send pieces of metal flying at who knows what speed. Hope this helps.

 

Hello Quark!

The flywheel can be removed by the method suggested by mastertek, BUT... you have a great risk of damaging the crankshaft. I've seen many many tecumseh crankshafts with ruined threads on the end from hitting it for flywheel removal...with the nut on them even. The nut just mashes the threads down. This is not a fun thing to deal with and can be expensive. The safest way would be to rent, borrow, buy a flywheel removal tool. I can't remember if there are threaded holes for puller bolts on this engine or not. If so, you can rent a harmonic balancer puller and bolts from autozone and safely use it to pull the flywheel. You will want to thread the flywheel nut down on the crank until it is flush with the top end of the crank to protect it. Penetrating oil won't help get it off, since it is basically pressed onto a tapered shaft. You need a puller.

When you reinstall, make sure you tighten the flywheel nut to proper torque.

 

Thanx sir tek, but i think your right cheeze. I'd rather do without, a new flywheel (or worse, new crank shaft). Well, serchin' the net, i don't see any flywheel pullers that look specific to the model I have, which seems to be an antique. There are three non-threaded holes in the top of the flywheel & I don't see how the tool will get a grip. But if you guys know the part # of the tool, that will help me in my search.

Thanx

 

Tecumseh has a puller (# 670306) that looks like it will work on two seperate diameter hole centers. Be sure and tell them what the diameter of your hole centers is, before you buy it. Also, I believe you will have to tap the holes out (possibly 1/4" x 20). You need to take your time and get a good set of threads. If it dosen't pop off with a good deal of pressure on it, just hit the center bolt with a hammer. You should be able to find a puller at a service center.

 

The 670306 is a self-tapping screw type puller, and not all Tec
flywheels have the 3 drilled holes to tap to. A knocker tool is easy
to use, cheap, and protects the crankshaft threads (and crank)
from damage. A good rap with a regular sized hammer while
applying prying pressure under the flywheel....works every time !!
Tecumseh makes several flywheel knockers. There are (3) that
are used regularly....670169 (3 thru 7HP), 670314 (8 thru 13HP),
and 670329 (14 thru 17.5HP). ALL are inexpensive. Using a puller is sometimes necessary for those situations where the key
is sheared so as to lock the flywheel to the taper of the crank. I
imagine a puller should be used sometimes, but most times....the
knocker method works easily and quickly.

Tcumcman

 

I also would normally recommend you use a puller or knocker, but you did ask how to get the flywheel off without the special tool. ha ha

 

Yup ...and that's about the only way to do it without the tool. If the key weren't sheared, then it would be a bit less risky that way, but when the key is sheared, the crank almost always gets buggered up doing it that way. That sheared key just locks that flywheel on there so tight that it seems like a puller doesn't even want to get it off sometimes.